Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
1
there are spectacular views from the ancient hilltop temple of
Phnom Chisor
. Both sites
could be combined as a day-trip, along with
Phnom Tamau
, Cambodia's only state-run
zoo and wildlife rescue centre.
Chroy Chung Va peninsula
At the confluence of the Tonle Sap and Mekong rivers, facing Phnom Penh city centre • Once across the Chroy Chung Va Bridge, take the
first right, which heads right around the headland (moto $2)
The 3km spit of land that makes up the
Chroy Chung Va peninsula
was once a farming
area - controversially, however, the Phnom Penh cleared out the villagers from the
western side and turned it into a riverside park, facing the promenade on the city side. It's
a good spot to watch the sunset over the city, sipping a coconut at one of the refreshment
stalls, and if you make your way northeast along the banks of the Mekong you'll pass
through several friendly villages inhabited by the
Cham
, Cambodia's Muslim minority.
Koh Dach
Some 6km from Phnom Penh • Ferries run regularly throughout the day, departing when full (moto and driver 1500 riel, foot passengers
1000 riel) from jetties signposted off NR6 across Chroy Chung Va - alternatively, guesthouses organize group tours (from $10/person) and
private cruises run from the tourist dock ($20/hr)
Set in the middle of the Mekong 6km from Phnom Penh is the quiet island of
Koh
Dach
. Primarily an agricultural community (peanuts are an important cash crop), the
10km-long island is home to a number of stilt-house villages, and you'll see a good
cross-section of rural life as you meander along its leafy tracks. The island is noted for
its
weaving
of
sampots
, and in the dry season looms clack away beneath the houses,
producing colourful reams of cotton and silk. As soon as you arrive you'll be invited
into a home to watch the weavers in action, before being encouraged to browse and
buy. As the river level falls after the rainy season, a wide sandy
beach
is exposed at the
northern end of Koh Dach, where food stalls and picnic huts serve traditional dishes
and tasty fried chicken.
Wat Champuh Ka'Ek
12km east of Phnom Penh, off NR1 • After the Monivong Bridge take the first right (Street 369) along the Bassac River - the pagoda is on
the left after 7km (a moto should cost no more than $5 return)
he ten thousand Buddha statues at
Wat Champuh Ka'Ek
, fashioned in just about every
possible shape, size and material, were donated by wealthy patrons, from whose gifts
the pagoda derives its conspicuous a
uence. he monks here are much respected and
well connected - it's not unusual to find them performing elaborate ceremonies for
dignitaries and well-heeled Cambodians who wish to gain merit in the next life or to
receive blessings in this one.
The pagoda is entered through an avenue lined with devas (gods) on one side and
asuras (demons) on the other, a favourite Cambodian theme; the Buddhas are arrayed
in air-conditioned splendour in the modern-looking
hall
across the compound, ranged
in floor-to-ceiling tiers and illustrating every one of the forty
mudras
along the way.
One of the most sublime images - a life-size standing bronze Buddha - is at the centre
of the display towards the front. The hands are held out in front of the body, palms
facing out with fingers pointed up in
abhaya mudra
, the position of giving protection; a
diamond is embedded in the centre of each palm.
If the
vihara
is open, it's worth putting your head inside to see the unusually
decorated walls - by Cambodian standards these are stark, painted pale yellow and
stencilled with golden Buddha images. A small white stupa nearby, in front of the
bathing pool, contains skulls and bones found in the pagoda grounds of people
murdered by the Khmer Rouge.
