Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Vine Retreat
Phnom Voar
T
036 633 3383,
W
thevineretreat.com.
This excellent resort doubles up as
an organic farm, with breathtaking views of the
countryside stretching out to the Gulf of Thailand. Great
food (including a raw menu), community-led trekking and
tours, yoga weekends and a restaurant with raw food
menu. It's a 5km hike off
ff NR
33 between Kep and Phnom
Penh; call for directions.
$25
5
Takeo province
Much of
Takeo province
disappears in an annual inundation by the waters of the
Mekong and Bassac rivers, leaving
Takeo town
isolated on the shore of a vast inland sea,
and outlying villages transformed into islands. As the waters recede, an ancient network
of canals, which once linked the area to
the trading port of Oc Eo (now a ruined site
across the border in Vietnam), is revealed. These continue to be vital for local
communication and trade, and getting around the area is still easiest by boat - indeed,
for much of the year there is no alternative.
Takeo town
A key port on the trading route with Vietnam, the town of
TAKEO
(pronounced
ta-kow
) consists of two separate hives of activity: to the south, a dusty (or muddy,
depending on the season) market and transport stop on NR2 - which has little to
recommend it unless you want to visit one of the karaoke parlours - and to the north,
a more picturesque area around the
Rokha Khnong Lake
, canal and port. Takeo makes a
good base from which to visit the only
Funanese
sites so far identified in Cambodia,
Angkor Borei
and the nearby
Phnom Da
, which can be combined on a boat trip from
town; an informative museum at Angkor Borei displays artefacts and statues unearthed
at both sites. Since Takeo is only two hours from Phnom Penh, it's possible to visit
these sights on a day-trip.
Rokha Khnong Lake
Southwest of the canal, a park with views over the marshy, lily-covered
Rokha Khnong
Lake
makes a pleasant spot for an early morning or sunset stroll. Taking up a beautiful
spot in the middle of the lake, the home of former Khmer Rouge chief of staff,
Ta M ok
- nicknamed “The Butcher” - was built for seclusion and protection in 1976 and until
recently was used as a police training facility. Although you can't enter the building,
you can cross the bridge to stroll in the grounds.
The port
You could while away a little time at Takeo's
port
, watching large wooden boats
arriving from Vietnam laden with cheap terracotta tiles destined for Phnom Penh; the
vessels are easily identified by the protective all-seeing eye painted on their bows.
Takeo's colonial past is evident in the crumbling square behind the waterfront, and
there's a small market,
Psar Nat
, which is busy in the early morning and late afternoon
with local farmers and fisherfolk. The town's shophouses are sadly neglected, but still
retain a discernible sense of French style.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
TAKEO TOWN
By bus and shared taxi
Takeo is straightforward to
reach by bus (Phnom Penh Sorya) or shared taxi along NR2
from Phnom Penh
(10,000 riel), both of which will drop you
in front of Psar Thmei. To get to Kampot or Kep, shared taxis
leave from Angk Tasaom, 13km west of town ($2/$5 by
moto/tuk-tuk). As you enter the town on NR2, the road
forks; the left branch takes you past the lake and out to the
port, while the right fork (NR2) continues 1km to the
Independence Monument tra
c roundabout and then a
further 1km to the market and transport stop. Here you'll
also be able to get onward transport for the 30km trip to
Phnom Den (for Tinh Bien in Vietnam; border open daily
7am-8pm, Vietnamese visas not available), usually via
Kirivong.
