Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
5
THE CHINESE IN CAMBODIA
There has been a
Chinese presence
in Cambodia since the very earliest times - indeed,
accounts written by Chinese traders and envoys from the third century onwards have played a
major part in chronicling the country's history - but it was only after the fifteenth century that
the Chinese began to settle in significant numbers. Marrying into rich Khmer families and
assuming positions as tax collectors, bankers, gold dealers and restaurateurs, ethnic Chinese
soon established themselves as arguably the most influential minority in the country.
A flood of new immigrants arrived as a result of China's economic crisis in the 1930s. In the
main, the Chinese community continued to prosper until the 1970s, when they were
persecuted
first by the Lon Nol government - which resented their success - and then by
the Khmer Rouge, who wanted them eliminated. Things became more complicated in 1979
when the Vietnamese liberation of Cambodia was followed by a short-lived Chinese invasion
of Vietnam. This resulted in many Cambodian Chinese fleeing to Thailand; those Chinese who
remained were subsequently permitted to resume limited business activities, but it wasn't until
after the 1993 elections that they were properly able to reassert their influence on business
- which they did wholeheartedly, capitalizing on their access to investment capital through
their extensive overseas networks. Nowadays, the number of Chinese-owned businesses is
clear to see from the Chinese signage on streets in any Cambodian town.
Cambodia's Chinese have managed to retain their own culture and language (most are
bilingual
) while at the same time integrating very well into Cambodian society. In towns such
as Voen Sai and Kampot they are more visible by virtue of maintaining their own Chinese-
language
schools
. And in Phnom Penh, although Chinese New Year is not an o
cial holiday, it
assumes a festive importance akin to the Khmer New Year, with energetic dragon dances
performed in the streets.
For a pleasant stroll, follow the river from the old road bridge to the disused railway
bridge in the north. There you can cross the river on the rusty, pockmarked walkway,
and return to town along the other bank.
Kampot Traditional Music School
On the edge of the park northeast of the old market • Mon-Fri 6-9pm • Free, but a donation is appreciated
Kampot Traditional Music School
teaches traditional and folk music and dance to
orphaned and disabled children. Visitors are welcome to come and watch the classes
and a timetable is displayed outside. There are regular
performances
, too.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE KAMPOT
Arriving by bus from Phnom Penh, you can either get dropped by the (new) market, north of the centre, or 700m
further on at the transport stop, between the Durian statue and Total petrol station, where shared taxis and minibuses
also arrive.
By bus
Phnom Penh Sorya Transport and Hua Lian have
booking desks next to the transport stop; they run big
buses (5hr) to Phnom Penh via Kep. Paramount, Capitol
and Rith Mony also offer direct buses to Phnom Penh (4hr),
while Giant Ibis is faster still.
Destinations
Kep (10 daily; 1hr); Phnom Penh (12 daily;
2hr 30min-5hr).
By shared taxi and minibus
Shared transport departs
from opposite the bus terminus; Champa Mekong run an
afternoon service to Sihanoukville. Kampot Tours' buses serve
Sihanoukville ($5), Kep ($3) and Koh Kong ($10), as well as
Ha Tien ($8), for Vietnam, with uncomfortable services
(involving a change of vehicle at the border) to HCMC ($18)
and Bangkok ($35). Giant Ibis operates comfortable twelve-
seater express nonstop minibuses direct to Phnom Penh
directly ($8). Shared taxis also travel to Takeo ($3).
Destinations
Bangkok (daily; 12hr); Ha Tien (daily; 2hr);
HCMC (daily; 10hr); Kep (3 daily; 1hr); Koh Kong (daily;
5hr); Phnom Penh (12 daily; 3hr-3hr 30min); Sihanoukville
(10 daily; 2hr 30min); Takeo (8-12 daily; 2hr).
GETTING AROUND
Built on a grid system, Kampot is bordered on the west by the Teuk Chhou/Kampong Bay River, spanned in the south by a
rustic old bridge for local tra
c. To the north, NR3 runs along a modern concrete bridge. The
town centre
is at the Durian
