Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Chi Phat
A shining example of the success of Cambodia's community-based ecotourism projects,
CHI PHAT
is a remote riverside settlement nestled in the southern valleys of the
Cardamom Mountains, accessible by moto or by long-tail boat from Andoung Tuek
some 20km away, up the Preak Piphot River. Thanks to its isolation, Chi Phat is a good
hike off the tourist trail and provides an excellent opportunity to enjoy the forest
surroundings while supporting the local community. Established by the Wildlife
Alliance in 2008 in an effort to protect the forests from illegal logging and poaching, the
Chi Phat Community-based Ecotourism project (
CBET
), set in a four-village commune
home to around 550 families, was designed to empower villagers to pursue sustainable
forms of income. Its members - many, former poachers - are trained in nature
awareness, earning their keep by guiding and opening up their homes to visitors.
There are scores of
guided activities
on offer; trips cost around $35/day, including
guide (some with decent English), packed lunch and water. An overnight stay is
enough to get a flavour of Chi Phat, although a few days or even a week is better if you
want to explore the huge network of
jungle trails
, either on foot or
mountain bike
,
visiting waterfalls in secluded clearings, bat caves and ancient jar burial sites. There are
also sunrise
birdwatching
excursions (the silver oriole, the yellow-bellied warbler and
great hornbill are highlights) and peaceful
river cruises
in traditional rowing boats.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE CHI PHAT
To get to Chi Phat, you'll need to first make for the village of
Andoung Tuek
from where you can either take a
moto
($7;
45min) or a boat upriver.
CBET boats
($10; 2hr) wait for the arrival of the Virak Buntham Phnom Penh-Koh Kong bus (it
passes through around noon-1pm); however it's advisable to book your place on the boat in advance (
T
035 675 6444,
W
chi-phat.org). If you're coming on a morning bus from Sihanoukville (2hr 30min) or Koh Kong (2hr), you'll be there in
plenty of time. From the bridge dock it's also easy to charter a
motorboat
, which costs significantly more ($30). Watch out
for rogue motorboat owners claiming there's no scheduled boat. This is not the case, although if you miss the lunchtime
boat it's a 24hr wait for the next one.
5
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Chi Phat
accommodation
can be booked with the CBET Visitor Centre when you arrive or, better still, in advance (
T
035
6756444,
W
chi-phat.org).
Homestays
are available, along with
guesthouses
and more upmarket
bungalows
on
Butterfly Island. Most, but not all, have electricity from at least sunset to 10pm; some, overnight. If you're heading off on
one of the multi-day treks, a hammock or tent, plus basic bedding, will be provided. You can buy cheap noodle dishes for
less than $1 at the market, and there are two
restaurants
.
Butterfly Island
A 20min walk from the CBET o
ce.
The most upmarket accommodation,
in
fan-cooled
bungalows, with evening electricity only.
$15
CBET
restaurant
The small CBET restaurant serves
substantial, nourishing meals made from local produce
($2.50 breakfast, $3.50 lunch/dinner).
Daily 6-8.30am,
11am-1pm & 6-7.30pm.
Guesthouse
s
Chi Phat has fourteen basic, homely
guesthouses.
$6
Homestays
There are eleven homestays available.
Your hosts will speak limited English, if at all, but
are wonderfully hospitable. Expect to live as they
do; although they will have gone to great trouble to
make your quarters spotless, be prepared for outdoor
loos, scoop showers and close proximity
to
farm
animal
s. R
ates include dinner. One person
$5
; two
people
$7
Mama's
Next door to the CBET restaurant.
Drop
in here for a change from the CBET restaurant.
Hours vary.
Kampot
Charming, compact
KAMPOT
,
on the north bank of the Teuk Chhou River (aka
Kampong Bay River), enjoys one of the nicest settings in Cambodia, and has become a
popular destination for weekending Khmer and expats from Phnom Penh, as well as
