Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
5
KOH S'DACH BOAT TRIPS AND DIVING
To get to neighbouring islands or go fishing from Koh S'dach, you'll need to
hire a boat
; agree
a schedule with the boatman beforehand and expect to pay upwards of $30/day. Meanwhile,
Koh Kong Divers
(
T
011 384545,
W
kohkongdiving.com), based at Shallow Waters HQ
(a professional British NGO involved in marine conservation), on Koh S'dach, run snorkelling
and diving trips ($65 a dive), and are currently the only PADI-certified dive outfit in the area
(Open Water $350). You can volunteer here as a research assistant (
W
shallow-waters
.org) or kip down in their dorm (see below).
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE KOH S'DACH AND THE OUTLYING ISLANDS
The easiest way to reach Koh S'dach, Koh S'mach and Koh Totang used to be via the now-redundant express ferry that ran
between Sihanoukville, Koh Kong and Thailand. Nowadays, minibuses and motos ply the new red-dirt four-lane highway
to Poi Yapon, access point for the islands, which leads off the paved NR48, a few kilometres west of the village of Andoung
Tuek. Sadly, this new road (which will eventually be paved) cuts a wide swathe through
Botum Sakor
, a supposedly
protected national park, and is just phase one of a $5 billion, seven-resort, Chinese development due to open in 2025.
By bus and moto
From Sihanoukville take a Koh Kong-
bound bus (or minibus) to Andoung Tuek, where you can
take a minibus (until 1pm; $7.50) or a moto ($15) through
Botum Sakor National Park to Poi Yapon. From here, small
speedboats whizz you to the islands ($5). If you take the
first Koh Kong bus (around 8am), you should arrive at the
islands by 3pm.
By cargo boat
A rare choice these days, but cargo boats
depart Sihanoukville for Koh S'dach between noon and
2pm daily (5-6hr); bring a hammock as there are no seats.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
KOH S'DACH
Local food is the norm and you can fill up anywhere along
the main drag. The grocery shop is well stocked with water,
drinks, biscuits and general products, but expect to pay
more than you would on the mainland.
★
Shallow Waters
Near the pier
T
011 384545,
W
kohkongdiving.com or
W
shallow-waters.org.
British
NGO, carrying out marine research in the region, where
snorkelling and diving trips (see above) can be arranged.
It's possible to bunk down with the volunteers in their
timber-clad over-water dorms if a bed's available
, but
you
must book in advance. Rates include three meals.
$15
Belinda Beach
The end of the peninsula
T
017
517517,
W
belindabeach.com.
Pure isolated luxury,
Belinda
has a handful of a/c bungalows, an infinity pool
with jacuzzi, gorgeous gardens and breathtaking views of
the mainland across azure seas. It also has its own little
beach and a volle
yball
net, a good fusion restaurant and a
well-stocked bar.
$150
Mean Chay Guesthouse
On the west of the island
T
011 983806; no English spoken.
Clean, concrete
bungalows offering superb sea views and no-frills comforts
- private bathrooms and fans or a/c for a few dollars more.
Yvonne's
, a gr
eat l
little Italian restaurant (the island's best), is
here too. Fan
$10
KOH TOTANG
★
Nomad's Land
T
011 916171,
W
nomadsland
cambodia.com.
The five individual bungalows here fit in
gently with their glorious natural surroundings and have
shared outdoor showers and compost lavatories. There's
good snorkelling and diving from the beach and the
vibe couldn't be more laidback; the excellent
home-cooked meals (included) are shared (usually in the
form of a buffet)
arou
nd the large table in the communal
area. Book ahead.
$65
Koh Kong and around
The provincial town of
KOH KONG
, once a prosperous little logging town, has now
lapsed into a quiet backwater. Laid out on a simple grid on the east bank of the Kah
Bpow River, the town is dotted with wooden houses whose style owes more to
neighbouring Thailand than Cambodia; there's no colonial architecture at all. Sights,
such as they are, are low-key.
Outside town and across the province, stretching down as far as the northern tip of
Sihanoukville, is a fantastic destination for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts. The
majestic
Cardamom mountain range
, more than 1800m at its highest elevation, is still
