Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
5
TROUBLE IN PARADISE
Although change doesn't happen too quickly in Cambodia, many of the idyllic islands around
Sihanoukville do have a shelf life. Since 2006 the government has leased numerous islands
(possibly as many as 22) to international companies for the development of
luxury hotels
and
golf courses
destined to wipe out the fragile communities of wooden bungalows. So far,
around fourteen five-star resorts and a staggering
eighteen
golf courses
have been mooted,
and a Russian company, which has leased both Hawaii Beach and its off-island, Koh Pos (Snake
Island), has already built a
bridge
between the two, juxtaposing grimly against the crystalline
waters and the lush jungle on either side.
On the upside, these developments will provide much-needed
employment
for
Cambodians, but it would seem that the downsides are greater, with the money spent by
tourists going directly to the overseas corporations, and the resorts adding a further
drain on
resources
such as water, which is already severely limited (in summer it's not unknown for
Sihanoukville to run out of water for several weeks).
For now, plenty of stalwart bungalows and huts are weathering the developers' storm, but
time is of the essence if you want to visit the islands before their humble tranquillity is
obliterated entirely.
Koh Russei
Koh Russei
(or Bamboo Island) is a common stop on island-hopping day-trips due to
its close proximity (less than 1hr) to Sihanoukville. The last resort was cleared from the
island in 2013 to make way for a large new resort development, which for the moment
appears to have stalled.
Koh Tas
Koh Tas
(1hr from Sihanoukville by boat), a popular island-hopping stopoff, has sandy,
gently shelving beaches, great snorkelling and a good chance, if you take fishing tackle,
of hooking a fish for the barbecue.
Koh Rong
Offering the quintessential island experience,
Koh Rong
is Cambodia's second
largest island, boasting 43km of dazzling white casuarina-fringed beaches and a hilly,
forested interior home to wildlife and birds. A new fast ferry service from
Sihanoukville, started in 2013, has reduced travel time from over two hours to just
45 minutes. Except in its southeast, Koh Rong is largely undeveloped so, with a little
effort - or none at all, if you choose to stay in one of the isolated resorts - it's easy to
find a blissfully secluded bay to yourself; westerly
Long Set Beach
, backed by cashew
nut groves, is one of the most beautiful. The turquoise seas teem with marine life and
there's decent snorkelling and diving to be had offshore.
KOH TUI
, also known as Koh Touch, the largest village on the island, is a
favourite of young backpackers, with tiny-roomed guesthouses crammed
shoulder-to-shoulder beside a 300m stretch of beach, along with cafés, bars and
a nightly diet of firedancers, starlit barbecues and late-night music. It's easy
enough to escape if this isn't your thing; other bays across the island offer more
peace and quiet. The lush, hilly interior is ripe for trekking; you'll find no
better guide than Gil (4-5hr jungle treks $20 for two;
T
088 3796528; ask
for him at
Paradise Bungalows
).
Koh Rong's future is uncertain, however. The island was leased in 2006 to the Royal
Group who have plans to transform it into a luxurious eco-resort complete with hotels,
houses, a beach club, marina, restaurants, reservoirs and golf course, as well as an
airport. To check up on their progress, see
W
kohrong.com.kh.
