Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Motorbike rental
You can rent an off-road 250cc bike from a
number of companies, particularly in Phnom
Penh (see p.79), although you'll have to leave your
passport as security. Check the condition of the
bike before heading off on a long trip - if it breaks
down, it's your responsibility to get it repaired or
returned to the owner. Away from the main
highways take advice on local road conditions, as
often even relatively short distances can take a
long time. Motorcycle helmets are compulsory
(for the driver only) and you risk being stopped by
the police and issued with a spot fine ($5) if you're
not wearing one. Note that road checks are
particularly prevalent just before holidays and the
weekend.
Motorbike theft, in Sihanoukville and the south
in particular, is a real issue. The bike's security is
your responsibility, so look to rent from a company
that provides installed wheel locks and always
make sure you leave it somewhere secure when
you stop - at night guesthouses will often bring it
inside for you.
Foreigners cannot rent motorbikes in Siem Reap .
Originally safety was given as the reason for the
ban, but it's more likely to be a protectionist move
to keep the moto “mafias” in business. In other
towns it's easiest to use the 110cc run-arounds
available for rent from guesthouses and hire shops;
rates are around $5-8 per day.
major railway renovation programme was launched
with Australian assistance. The line south to Sihan-
oukville was reopened to freight services in 2012,
although the project subsequently hit major
(possibly terminal) delays, and it seems unlikely that
any passenger services will be launched for the
next two or three years - possibly a lot longer. In
the meantime the only way of getting on the rails is
to take a ride on Battambang's quirky “bamboo
railway” (see p.116).
By car
It's virtually impossible to rent a self-drive car in
Cambodia, and even if you do, driving yourself
entails numerous headaches. Problems include
finding appropriate documentation (your driving
licence from home may or may not be consid-
ered su cient - some companies will ask for a
Cambodian driving licence, for which you'll need
to take a driving test) haphazard driving by other
road users; and insu cient insurance - any loss or
damage to the vehicle is your responsibility.
The lack of designated car parks is another real
problem. Whenever you park you should get
someone to look after the vehicle; in town you'll
usually find a parking attendant near markets and
restaurants who will keep an eye on the vehicle for
1000 riel. It's normal to park as directed and leave
the handbrake disengaged so that the car can be
pushed out of the way to let other cars in or out. To
prevent theft and damage when leaving the vehicle
overnight, you'll need to look for a hotel with
parking or find a local with off-road space where
they'll let you park for a few dollars. Given all this, it's
far less hassle, and probably cheaper, to hire a car
and driver (see p.25).
Cycling
Cycling in Cambodia can be a rewarding experi-
ence - the Mekong Discovery Trail (see p.218), for
example, positively invites you to explore on two
wheels. Bicycles are available for rent at many
guesthouses and rental shops in towns for around
$1.50-3 per day, although what you get varies
considerably from swish mountain bikes to sturdy
but gearless affairs.
The main hazard is the heavy tra c on the
highways - it's essential to note that all motorized
tra c takes precedence over bicycles, and you
may find you have to veer onto the verge to get
out of the way of speeding cars and trucks. You'd
be advised to try to get to your destination by
late afternoon since many Cambodian vehicles
travel without lights and so won't see you as
darkness falls.
By motorbike or bicycle
Both cycling and renting a motorbike are popular
ways to explore Cambodia, though even with the
improved road conditions, poor driving by other
motorists makes it safer to travel only in daylight
hours. Whether you ride a motorbike or bicycle, it's
worth wearing sunglasses, long trousers and a
long-sleeved shirt to protect you not only from the
sun but also from the grit and gravel thrown up on
the dusty roads.
When heading off into the countryside, remember
that Cambodia (in spite of clearance programmes)
has a huge problem with land mines , and no
matter how tempting it may be to go cross-country,
stick to well-used tracks and paths.
City and town transport
When travelling around Cambodian towns and
cities you will most likely use either a romorque ,
 
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