Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
temple of
Phnom Da
is easily visited by boat from
Takeo
, a shabby little town that still
feels far removed from the tourist trail, despite its proximity to Phnom Penh.
In
southwestern Cambodia
, meanwhile, the
Cardamom Mountains
, a lush expanse of
forested valleys and peaks rising towards 1830m, are accessible from the community
village of
Chi Phat
where you can go trekking and experience a Cambodian
homestay
.
You can also access the Cardamoms on foot from the sleepy border town of
Koh Kong
,
an emerging ecotourism destination, whose engaging hinterland attractions include
waterfalls, isolated beaches and a mangrove sanctuary.
5
Kirirom National Park
From Phnom Penh NR4 makes its way through a typical Cambodian landscape of rice
fields and sugar palms before the distant blue peaks of the Cardamom Mountains to
the north and the Elephant Mountains to the south begin to loom on the horizon.
After 100km, a detour takes you to the pine-clad hills of
Kirirom National Park
, an
important wildlife sanctuary often ignored by travellers, but worth the effort of
reaching for its almost alpine scenery and crisp mountain air.
The rolling hills of the park
are zigzagged with well-trodden trails and dotted with
waterfalls, lakes and abundant wild plants. These slopes are home, despite illegal logging,
to
forests
of
Pinus merkusii
, a pine tree not found anywhere else in Cambodia. Although
poaching has taken its toll, species of deer, wild ox (gaur and banteng), elephant and
leopard still inhabit the depths of the park. In a 1995 survey, tiger tracks were found,
but the lack of subsequent sightings gives little hope that tigers survive here today.
In the 1940s a road was cut through the forest, and, following a visit from King
Norodom, who named the area Kirirom - “Happiness Mountain” - work began on
building a
hill station
. Construction was hindered by the Khmer Issarak guerrilla troops
who prowled the forests until the 1960s, and the completed resort was abandoned
during the Khmer Rouge years. In the mid-1990s it became accessible again as an
attractive holiday destination, including two royal residences. Nowadays, it's well worth
staying a few days. Kirirom begs to be explored on foot - and the area has been entirely
cleared of land mines.
Exploring the park
From the entrance, the road climbs steadily for 16km to a rolling forested
plateau
,
where you'll find the majority of the park's attractions and its few facilities. About
halfway up the hill, a signpost points down a narrow path to
Outasek waterfall
, a series
of cascades just a short hike off the main road. There's usually water for splashing about
in here, except during the very driest part of the year.
As you arrive on the plateau, a side road leads to a cluster of derelict buildings,
including the newer of the two
royal residences
, a fairly well preserved, whitish
building with a red roof. Further on, you can scramble through the overgrown garden
of the older royal residence for views over the forest and out to a magical lake,
Sras
Srorng
, which can be reached by heading downhill along a rough track from the palace.
Back on the main road, and about 1km further on, is the
park o
ce
. After another
500m or so you reach the only major road
junction
in the park, from where signs point
towards various sights. The most appealing option (particularly in the rainy season) is
the track north to a series of three
waterfalls
, I, II and III, numbered according to
increasing size, and located roughly every 2km.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
KIRIROM NATIONAL PARK
By public transport
The park can be reached by public
transport, though with some di
culty, as it's a 24km trip
from the turn-off from NR4 to the upland plateau and
Chambok. Take a Sihanoukville bus from Phnom Penh, ask
