Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Pick-up trucks
cover some of the country's most
off-the-beaten-track routes, and also roads that are
impassable by buses and minibuses, although
they're gradually becoming obsolete thanks to the
improving network. Seats in the cab - four in the
rear, two in the front - cost roughly the same as in a
shared taxi; and, as in taxis, you can pay for an extra
seat if you want more comfort. Sitting on the
back
of a pick-up
is the cheapest way to get around,
costing around half the price of seats inside, though
you'll have to sit on (or fit around) the goods being
transported, and you risk being bounced around
with nothing much to grab hold of. Take plenty of
water and a sense of humour, and dust-proof your
face by wrapping it in a scarf or
krama
.
TOP 5 JOURNEYS
The bamboo railway, Battambang
See p.116
Boat trips on the Tonle Sap
See p.157
Cycling around the Angkor temples
See p.190
Kayaking along the Mekong
See p.221
Safaris by boat in Ream National Park
See p.262
find more expensive deluxe coaches (Giant Ibis is
one of the main operators) with modern vehicles,
free snacks and even on-board wi-fi.
By minibus
By boat
Minibuses
, which leave from local transport stops,
provide the main alternative to buses, at a similar
price. These generally serve the same routes as
buses, and also go to smaller destinations not
served by bus. They also tend to be slightly faster.
On the downside, most usually get absolutely
packed and can be horribly uncomfortable,
especially for taller travellers (there's little legroom
at the best of times, unlike on the buses, which are
relatively luxurious in comparison).
There are also a few
“luxury minibus”
services
on the main intercity and international routes
(Mekong Express's “limousine bus” services, for
example), although these get mixed reviews, and
you can never be entirely certain of what you're
getting until it's possibly too late.
For years, Cambodia's appalling roads meant travel-
ling
by boat
was the principal means of getting
between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, but these
days it's easier and quicker to travel by road. Even
so, boats (seating about thirty people) still run daily
between Phnom Penh (see p.77) and Siem Reap
(see p.144), as well as Siem Reap and Battambang
(see p.118). The trip to or from Phnom Penh isn't
particularly scenic, as the Tonle Sap lake is so vast
it's more like being at sea. The trip to or from
Battambang is more interesting, combining a trip
across the Tonle Sap with a journey down the
Sangker River. Neither journey is particularly
comfortable: space and movement are restricted,
and a cushion, plenty of water, food and a hat
will make things more bearable. Be aware that in
rough weather the Tonle Sap can whip up some
fierce waves.
Boats run daily south along the Mekong
between Phnom Penh and the Vietnamese border
at
Chau Doc -
this can be arranged via local
guesthouses. From
Sihanoukville
in the south
regular ferries and fast catamarans depart a
few times a day to Koh Rong, with a few
continuing on to the neighbouring island of Koh
Rong Samloem.
By shared taxi and pick-up
Shared taxis
are the third main option when it
comes to travelling by road. These are generally
slightly more expensive but also somewhat faster
than buses and minibuses, although the driving can
often be hair-raising, especially if you're sat in the
front. They also serve local destinations off the bus
and minibus network. On the downside, like
minibuses they get absurdly packed: three people
on the front passenger seat is the norm (with the
driver sharing his seat as well), and four in the back.
You can pay double the standard fare to have the
whole front seat to yourself, and you can hire the
entire taxi for around five or six times the individual
fare. Shared taxis usually leave from the local
transport stop. There are no fixed schedules,
although most run in the morning, leaving when
(very) full.
By train
Cambodia's colonial-era
railway network
formerly
consisted of two lines, one connecting Phnom
Penh with Battambang and Poipet, and the other
linking the capital with Kampot and Sihanoukville.
The tracks were largely destroyed during the Khmer
Rouge period, however, and there have been no
passenger services since 2009. In the same year, a
