Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
MEKONG DISCOVERY TRAIL
Covering the stretch of the Mekong between Kratie and the Laos border north of Stung Treng,
the Mekong Discovery Trail is an initiative to get tourists off the beaten track and experience
the river's rich culture, ecology and historical heritage. The so-called “trail” actually comprises ten
separate itineraries using existing roads, tracks and waterways - a few signs have been set up
along some of the routes, but most of the time you'll have to find your own way.
The itineraries themselves are something of a moveable feast - most can be explored using
a mix of transport depending on what suits, whether on foot, by bike, or using a tuk-tuk or car.
A few also include the possibility of an overnight homestay (see p.220) en route. The various
routes are covered in more detail in a useful leaflet that you may be able to pick up in Kratie or
from Xplore Asia (see p.226) in Stung Treng, who also arrange guided tours around parts of the
trail. The following is a brief summary.
Ancient Ruins of Thala Barivat Trail 3km round-trip from Stung Treng to the ancient
temple ruins at Thala Barivat.
Bamboo Sticky Rice and Bridges 9km round-trip from Stung Treng featuring Sekong views
and krolan (sticky bamboo rice) tasting at Hang Khou Ban village.
Distant Dolphins Trail 40km by bike, or 61km by motorbike from Stung Treng to a beautiful,
rarely visited stretch of the Mekong, including the dolphin pool at Damrei Phong, south of
Stung Treng, and Koh Preah river island.
Dolphin and Krolan Discovery Trail 16km one way from Kratie, including the dolphin-
watching site at Kampie and Phnom Sambok temple.
Koh Trong Island Trail 9km round-trip around the river island of Koh Trong, just outside Kratie.
Kratie Architecture and Alms Trail 7km round-trip tour of Kratie, including the market, Wat
Roka Kandal and Wat Serey Santhor Vong.
River Life Explorer Trail 44km round-trip from Kratie, following the little-visited west bank of
the Mekong from Kratie to Kampie and beyond.
Stung Treng Silk and Sunset Trail 7km round-trip from Stung Treng, including a visit to the
Mekong Blue silk-weaving centre (see p.223).
Wat Sarsar Mouy and Koh Pdao Trail 35km from Kratie to Sambor, plus 15km around Koh
Pdao river island.
Waterfalls, Wetland and Wildlife Trail 57km from Stung Treng to O Svay, including visits to
the Sopheak Mitt falls and Anlong Cheuteal dolphin pool.
4
The road north from Kratie to Kampie
he road north from Kratie via Phnom Sambok to Kampie is one of the most magical
in Cambodia, running for 15km along a seemingly endless avenue of majestic tropical
trees flanked with a picture-perfect array of traditional Khmer wooden houses, raised
on enormous stilts. Many are of considerable size, topped with hipped red-tiled roofs
decorated with elaborate finials and linked to the road by long wooden walkways - it's
particularly lovely in the rainy season when the road looks like a never-ending causeway
between the encroaching waters.
Phnom Sambok
10km north of Kratie
Two-thirds of the way between Kratie and Kampie, the rustic hilltop temple complex at
Phnom Sambok offers a tranquil slice of rural Cambodian Buddhism en route to the
dolphins at Kampie. From the bottom of the hill, a steep staircase (361 steps in total),
lined with life-size statues of Buddhist acolytes, leads up to the various monastic buildings
scattered around the hillside above, split over three levels.
After 161 steps you reach the first terrace . To your left a scatter of meditation cells
dot the hillside along with the living quarters of the temple's resident monks,
arranged around a small vihara . Inside, the vihara (not always open) is decorated
with cartoonish murals showing the gruesome punishments awaiting the unrighteous
in the various Buddhist hells - gossips having their tongues pulled out, adulterers
 
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