Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
EATING AND DRINKING
There are at least a few refreshment stalls at most of the larger temple complexes, and restaurants at various places
including Angkor Wat, the Terrace of the Leper King, Neak Pean and along the north side of Srah Srang - all sell run-of-the-
mill Khmer and Chinese food at slightly inflated prices, and most have English-language menus. Alternatively, bring a
picnic with you from Siem Reap; many hotels now offer a picnic basket, or you can make your own from one of the local
supermarkets (see p.156) or the excellent Blue Pumpkin bakery (see p.150).
Phnom Kulen
50km north of Siem Reap • $20
It was at PHNOM KULEN , then known as Mahendrapura, that Jayavarman II had
himself consecrated supreme ruler in 802 (a date that is regarded as marking the start
of the Angkorian period), thereby instigating the cult of the devaraja (see p.285).
Although ancient temples are scattered here and elsewhere in the Kulen Mountains,
none of these can be visited due to the lack of roads and the danger of land mines.
Instead, the main reason to visit Phnom Kulen, 50km north of Siem Reap, is to gawp
at the massive reclining Buddha carved out of a huge rock in the sixteenth century
- and once you're here you may find yourself very taken with the piety of the Buddhist
devotees who come to worship at a chain of shrines. Unfortnately, the Angkor pass
w(see opposite) isn't valid at Phnom Kulen, and the high entrance charge coupled with
the cost of getting here keeps all but the most dedicated explorers from visiting. Note
too that the area was heavily mined by the Khmer Rouge and it has yet to be fully
cleared. Don't wander off to locations other than those described here unless you have
an experienced local guide.
3
The hill
From the ticket of ce at the foot of the hill the road climbs steadily through forest to a
sandstone plateau. On the left a track leads to a parking area from where you can walk
down to the river where you may be able to make out some of the linga for which the
river is famed, but as they're only 25cm square, they're hard to spot on the riverbed if
the waters are high or turbid. It's a further 1km or so to the top of the hill, packed with
stalls selling refreshments and Khmer medicine, and offering good views over the
surrounding Kulen Mountains. A short climb brings you to a busy pagoda, Preah Ang
Thom, which features a much-revered and impressive reclining Buddha , carved into a
massive boulder, usually busy with Cambodians making offerings. A simple but
impressive frieze of Buddha heads is carved around the base of the rock.
There are further forest shrines behind the pagoda - follow the locals, who come
armed with huge bundles of incense to ensure they have enough to make offerings at
all the shrines on the circuit. Nearly every boulder has a legend attached to it - one
with holes that look like claw marks is said to be where Hanuman crash-landed. At the
end of the track, Cambodians come to wash their faces in water from a holy spring
which gushes from a boulder, believing this will give energy, good health and luck; old
bottles are produced and filled to take home.
Beng Mealea
60km east of Siem Reap • $5 • Beng Mealea is connected to Siem Reap by a reasonable road, surfaced all the way (you can even get there
by tuk-tuk), which continues to Koh Ker, meaning that a visit to both sites can be combined in a day-trip - it's about 1hr 30min from Siem
Reap to Beng Mealea, and a further hour on to Koh Ker
Mostly hidden in rampant vegetation, the scrub-covered Hindu temple of BENG
MEALEA , yet to be restored, gives a good idea of what the French archeologists found
 
 
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