Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
rock formation. It's only closer up that the intricacy of the design becomes apparent
and you can begin to make out the 37 towers carved with their massive faces of
Lokesvara
. It is said that there are more than two hundred in all, although no one
seems to know the exact number, and exactly why they are repeated so many times
remains unclear.
Built in the late twelfth and/or early thirteenth century, the Bayon was intended to
embrace all the religions of the kingdom, including the Islamic beliefs of the newly
conquered Cham, but was consecrated as a Buddhist temple. When the state religion
reverted to Hinduism, the Buddha in the central sanctuary was torn down and cast
into the well below.
Third enclosing wall bas-reliefs: east wall
Enclosing the central sanctuary is the
third enclosing wall
- actually a colonnaded
gallery, though the roof has long since collapsed. Its outer walls are covered with
extensive
bas-reliefs
, deeper and less fine than those at Angkor Wat (and some are
unfinished). These were intended to be viewed
clockwise
, starting from the
midpoint of
the eastern wall
, which is how they're described below.
Heading south along the gallery from the east approach, on the
east wall
you'll see a
military procession
depicted on three levels; bareheaded soldiers with short hair march
across the uppermost level, while the level just below depicts troops with goatee beards
and elaborate hairstyles. Musicians and bareback cavalry accompany them, the
commanders (with parasols) seated on elephants. Close to the next door to the
courtyard are the army's camp followers, their covered carts much like those used today.
At the lowest level are some fascinating scenes of everyday domestic and rural life,
many of them still as true now as when they were first carved.
3
Third enclosing wall bas-reliefs: south wall
he
southeast corner tower
is unfinished, but its carving of a boat is remarkable for
continuing all the way around the corner, where you'll discover the finest of the Bayon
bas-reliefs, depicting the 1177
naval battle
between the Khmer and the Cham on the
Tonle Sap lake. The victorious Khmer, led by Jayavarman VII, are shown with bare
heads, whereas the Cham wear vaguely floral-looking hats. At the start, the king is seen
seated in the palace directing preparations for battle, as fish swim through the trees - as
in a rainy-season flood. Along the bottom are more carvings drawn from everyday life
on the banks of the Tonle Sap: fishing baskets - just like those used now - hang from
the ceiling, skewers of food are cooked over a charcoal fire and women are seen picking
lice out of one another's hair.
A bit further along, princesses are shown amusing themselves at the palace, while
around them wrestlers spar and a boar-fight takes place. Subsequently, battle
commences. The Cham disembark from their boats to continue the fight on land
against the Khmers - with short hair and rope tied around their bodies - who are given
the appearance of giants and who are, of course, victorious. Back at the palace,
Jayavarman VII
himself looks on as the celebratory feast is prepared.
EXPLORING THE BAYON
Most coach parties descend on the Bayon from mid-morning to early afternoon, meaning that
the
best time to visit
is either early in the morning (around 7-9am) or later in the afternoon.
A good plan is to arrive at Angkor Thom in time for lunch, then spend the first part of the
afternoon exploring the city's other sights (which will take at least a couple of hours) before
heading to the Bayon at around 3/4pm, when the worst of the crowds have dispersed.
Drivers drop off passengers at various places at the beginning of visits to the Bayon and
surrounding monuments. Make sure to know
exactly
where your driver is waiting to pick you
up, as there's an awful lot of transport about, and several different parking areas.
