Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
private abode of each king's particular god - an aspect of the uniquely Khmer cult known as
the
devaraja
, literally “god-king” (see p.302).
MONASTERIES AND SHRINES
The state temples are just one aspect of Angkorian architecture, however, and smaller temples,
monasteries and other structures abound. Most famous are the sprawling
monastic
complexes of Ta Prohm, Banteay Kdei and Preah Khan. These were public rather than private
shrines, serving as monasteries, universities and places of worship for the hoi polloi. Very
different in effect from the soaring state temples, these “flat” temples (as they're sometimes
described) nevertheless follow the same basic layout, with a cluster of central towers
contained within concentric enclosures, the whole bounded by a moat.
LATERITE, BRICK AND SANDSTONE
The building materials used by the ancient Khmer changed over time.
Laterite
was the basic
material, readily available and easy to quarry. This was used to construct walls and other
functional structures, although its distinctively rough, pockmarked appearance made it
unsuitable for fine decorative carving. Early Angkor-period temples were faced largely in
brick
(Sambor Prei Kuk and Prasat Kravan are two particularly notable examples), often carved with
extraordinary finesse. Later on, the more valuable
sandstone
became the material of choice
for the most important buildings, ranging from the delicate roseate sandstone used at Banteay
Srei to the hard, slightly blackish stone at Ta Keo and the Baphuon.
Wooden
buildings would
also have featured, although these have all long since vanished.
GODS AND GUARDIANS
Much of the beauty of Angkor can be found in the detail, with prodigious quantities of
sculpture covering (in the finest temples) virtually every surface.
Doors
were the main focus,
particularly
lintel
panels above entrances, often fantastically carved with gods or scenes from
Hindu mythology and often featured
mythical beasts
such as the
kala
and
makara
. In
addition, many doors are flanked by guardian figures, known as
dvarapalas
. Heavenly
apsaras
are another favoured motif, while walls and door jambs are often decorated in the
flamboyant
floral designs
so beloved of Khmer craftsmen. The famous narrative
bas relief
galleries
of the Bayon and (especially) Angkor Wat are among the most celebrated instances
of Angkorian carving, although they're not found at any other temples. Perhaps most iconic of
all, however, are the superhuman, enigmatic faces of the bodhisattva
Lokesvara
carved upon
the towers of the Bayon, the gateways of Angkor Thom, and at various other locations around
Angkor, smiling enigmatically in benign blessing over the lands beyond.
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of other headline attractions slightly further afield including
Banteay Srei
, a unique
micro-temple of intricately carved reddish stone, and the
Roluos Group
, home to some
of Angkor's oldest temples. Several other major Angkorian monuments can be found
even further from Siem Reap, outside the Archaeological Park and covered by their
own tickets. These include the jungle-smothered temple of
Beng Mealea
(see p.191),
the great temple-towns of
Koh Ker
(see p.192) and
Preah Khan (Kompong Thom)
(see p.194), and the stunning
Preah Vihear
(see p.196) in the far north of the country,
sitting high on a mountaintop above the Thai border.
Brief history
For six hundred years from the early ninth century the area around Angkor Wat was
the heart of the
Khmer Empire
. A ready supply of water and the fertility of the land
meant that the area could support large populations, and successive Angkorian kings
constructed their royal cities and state temples here. Despite the region's importance,
there's a dearth of written records: the ancient Khmer wrote on specially treated palm
trees or animal skins and none of their texts have survived. Consequently the history
of Angkor had to be painstakingly pieced together through study of the temples and
more than a thousand inscribed steles - mostly written in Sanskrit - found across the
