Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The temple
Approaching the site you'll catch a glimpse of the temple's lotus-choked moat and
laterite enclosing wall. The usual approach is via the causeway to the east and
through the multiple collapsed doorways of the eastern entrance. Some of the
carvings
hereabouts are in great condition, but require a little searching to find; look
out for a lintel carved with bearded musicians, one playing a harp, and another
carved with dancing cranes.
The inner enclosure is surrounded by a
gallery
, mostly filled in by accumulated
dust, dirt and rubble. Tiny Buddha images remain perched in some of the niches
along the gallery roof, but many more have been crudely hacked out, either when
the state religion switched from Buddhism back to Hinduism in the thirteenth
century or as a result of looting. The
faces
of the bodhisattva Srindradeva look
down from the remaining towers, while part of an eight-armed relief of Vishnu
remains on the west face of the central tower, though sadly, like so many carvings
here, it's missing its head.
Some of the temples finest magnificently carved
bas-reliefs
can still be seen on the
western exterior of the enclosing wall including a spectacular 32-armed Avalokitesvara
(there were originally eight similar carvings, although six have been removed by looters
- you can still see the nearby breach in the wall from which they were taken). To the
north, another section of wall illustrates tales from the
Ramayana
, with a good image of
a
yeak
swallowing a horse, while on the eastern side look out for a remarkable panel
showing a battle between the Chams and Khmers (not unlike the similar panel at the
Bayon), with the dead below, being consumed by crocodiles.
2
Around the temple
Nine satellite temples survive in the vicinity of the main temple, most of them
atmospherically ruined - it's best to hire a guide (see below) to explore them properly.
Just south of the temple,
Prasat Ta Prohm
sports Bayon-style face towers, while west of
the temple
Prasat Samnang Tasok
remains picturesquely overgrown. East of the main
temple lies the temple's original
baray
(reservoir), originally more than 1.5km long but
now dried up, with the remains of another temple,
Prasat Mebon
(accessible during the
dry season only) at its centre.
Some 3km north of the main temple is another reservoir, the
Boeung Cheung Kru
(or
“Pol Pot Baray”), built by forced labour during the Khmer Rouge era - now an
important local water source and peaceful birdwatching site. Just across from the
southwest corner of the moat enclosing the main temple is a French-run silk-weaving
project, the
Soieries du Mékong
(
W
soieriesdumekong.com) where you can watch local
women weaving silk and buy
kramas
.
Meanwhile, around 12km south of Banteay Chhmar,
Banteay Tuop
(Army Fortress)
was probably constructed at the same time, and though there are fewer carvings here
than at Banteay Chhmar, the towers are taller.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
BANTEAY CHHMAR
From Sisophon
It's about 60km from Sisophon to
Banteay Chhmar, taking around 1hr 30min in the dry
season, or up to 3hr in the wet, when the road can
deteriorate dramatically. You may be able to arrange
transport through the
Botoum
or
Nasa
hotels; alternatively,
try the moto drivers hanging out by
Nasa
or ask around at
the transport stop. The trip by moto costs roughly $25-35,
by car (if you can find one) around $45-50, with prices
varying according to the season.
Opening hours
Daily dawn-dusk.
Admission
$5 (ticket also valid for Banteay Tuop).
Guides
Guides ($10) can be hired through the CBT o
ce
(see p.130) - useful for the main site, and essential if you
want to properly explore the various outlying temples.
Tour packages Contact
W
visitbanteaychhmar.org, who
arrange homestays and organize tour packages to the
temple including accommodation, guide, transport and
village visits (from $124 for two people for two days).
