Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE LEGEND OF PUTHISEN AND KONG REI
Local legend has it that the hill on the far side of the Tonle Sap lake is actually the body of the
lovestruck giantess Kong Rei , her hair flowing across the ground to the southeast, her feet to
the northwest. The story (based on an apochryphal Jataka tale and found in various forms
across Southeast Asia) tells of twelve sisters abandoned by their father in a forest and taken
into the service of the giantess Santema and her family. Tiring of their life slaving for the
giants, the sisters eventually escaped and made their way to a neighbouring kingdom, where
they were married en masse to King Preah Bath Rothasith. And lived happily ever after.
Or at least might have done, had Santema not decided to pursue them. Santema began by
disguising herself and charming the king into taking her as his thirteenth wife, then caused
him to pluck out the eyes of the twelve sisters (save one, Neang Pov, who was permitted to
retain a single eye). At Santema's command, the hapless sisters were then confined to a cave
and forced to eat their own newborn children. Only one child survived, Puthisen , who lived in
the cave with his one-eyed mother and eleven blind aunts, forced to survive by consuming
the flesh of his dead cousins, and dreaming - not surprisingly - of revenge.
Years passed. Santema, increasingly fearful, plotted to destroy Puthisen, now grown to
manhood, by sending him into the forest of the giants and having him killed. Unfortunately
her plan backfired, and her own daughter, Kong Rei, fell in love with the wandering hero. The
two were subsequently married, after which Kong Rei revealed the true nature of her mother,
Santema. Unfortunately for Kong Rei, Puthisen's filial devotion proved stronger than his new
conjugal ties, and he proceeded to take back the stolen eyeballs of his unfortunate mother
and aunts, along with various magic potions, and make good his escape, using the potions to
create a river (the Tonle Sap) between himself and his pursuing wife. The grief-stricken Kong
Rei subsequently cried herself to death and transformed into the mountain you see today.
Puthisen, meanwhile, returned, killed Santema and restored his mother and aunts' stolen sight,
after which everyone really did live happily ever after.
In 1972 the legend was made into a classic Khmer film, Puthisen Neang Kong Rey ,
while a statue of the ill-fated couple can be seen near Kompong Chhnang's Independence
Monument.
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their houses (a small Cambodian Crafts Federation shop here sells a range of pottery).
Almost every house in the village is involved in the pottery business - smaller pieces are
made on a wheel spun by foot; larger items are hammered into shape with a large
wooden spatula. Most are unglazed and unpainted, although some are embellished with
simple etchings or appliqué designs. Items might include simple plates indented with
dimples (used to bake tiny coconut cakes over charcoal fires) through to more elaborate
elephant-shaped money boxes - which you'd have to break open to get at your savings.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE KOMPONG CHHNANG
Plentiful buses and shared taxis shuttle between Kompong Chhnang and Phnom Penh, with slightly less frequent services
in the other direction to Pursat and Battambang (and beyond).
By bus Buses drop off and pick up passengers either
at the transport stop close to the Vietnamese
Friendship Monument in the centre (where you'll also
find a couple of makeshift stalls selling bus tickets,
including one for Phnom Penh Sorya buses) or along NR5
nearby. Leaving Kompong Chhnang, you may be able to
flag down a passing bus on the main road, although it's
very hit and miss.
Destinations Battambang (15 daily; 4hr); Phnom Penh (15
daily; 2hr 30min); Pursat (15 daily; 2hr).
By shared taxi Shared taxis to/from Phnom Penh use the
transport stop. Taxis to/from Battambang use the stop on
the road just north of Psar Leu (although it's worth
checking at the transport stop as well).
Destinations Battambang (15 daily; 4hr); Phnom Penh (15
daily; 2hr 30min); Pursat (15 daily; 2hr).
GETTING AROUND
Central Kompong Chhnang is easily walkable, although you might want to catch a moto or tuk-tuk if heading down to
the lake ($1-2 one way). Bikes ($1/day) can be rented from the Chantea Borint Hotel .
 
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