Cambodia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 83

DIRECTORY
Banks and exchange There are ATMs at the Canadia
Bank (Visa and MasterCard) and the Acleda Bank, 500m
south of the market (Visa only).
Internet There are a couple of (nameless) internet places
down the road running west from the Arunras Hotel (2500
riel/hr), and another on the main road one block south
of the river.
Post o ce Next to the Arunras Hotel on the main road
(daily 11am-10.30pm).

double-bridge over the Sen River - where
the old one has been left alongside the
new one, built with Australian assistance
(hence the kangaroos at each end) - and
gaudy Wat Kompong hom, the local
temple , with its massive leopard and
rhino statues standing guard outside.

2

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus Buses generally stop opposite the market on the
main road, not far from the taxi transport stop. Most
transport is just passing through, so make sure your driver
knows you want to get off here. You won't have to walk
more than 500m from here to reach a hotel or guesthouse,
but there are plenty of moto and tuk-tuk drivers around if
you need one.
Destinations Phnom Penh (8 daily; 4hr; $6); Siem Reap
(8 daily; 2hr; $5).
By share taxi or minibus These leave between around
6am and 2pm. The transport stop is in the square one block
east of the main road opposite the Arunras Hotel . Share
taxis cost around $6/seat from Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.
Destinations Kompong Cham (3hr); Phnom Penh (4hr);
Siem Reap (2hr).

SAMBOR PREI KUK
he site of the major seventh-century
Chenla capital known as Ishanapura,
Sambor Prei Kuk once boasted hundreds
of temples, although most have crumbled
or been smothered by the encroaching
forest. hree fine sets of towers remain,
however - well worth the excursion and
modest entrance fee ($3).
he site is divided into three groups:
north, central and south. If you've
come with a driver, he may know of
temples that have recently been
uncovered, as new sites are being cleared
all the time.
he north group (closest to the car
park), known as Prasat Sambor Prei Kuk ,
is distinguished by the reliefs of the
central sanctuary tower. hese depict
flying palaces , said to be the homes of
the gods who guard the temples. In spite
of their age, you can make out figures
and the floors of the palace. Also look out
for the cute reliefs of winged horses and
tiny human faces.
he central group is relatively more
recent than the other two, dating from
the ninth century, although only the
main sanctuary tower, Prasat Tor , remains
- particularly photogenic, with sprouting
vegetation and reproduction lions
flanking the entrance steps. Intricate
foliage carvings are still visible on the
south lintel.
he south group, Prasat Neak Pean , was
the most important temple at Ishanapura.
Inside the brick-walled enclosure stand
several unusual octagonal towers
decorated with further flying palaces and
(on the west side of the inner wall) some
elaborate but eroded bas-reliefs in a line
of roundels.

ACCOMMODATION
Arunras Hotel and Guesthouse National Route 6 T 012
961294. Housed in adjoining buildings, with the hotel
rooms slightly more luxurious and modern; the building
has Kompong Thom's only elevator, a fact about which the
proprietors are immensely proud. Both offer clean, good-
value rooms ($6 extra for a/c), with guesthouse doubl es from
$8 and hotel rooms starting a dollar cheaper. Double $7
Stung Sen Royal Garden National Route 6 T 062
961228. On the main road overlooking the river, with
welcoming, English-speaking sta ff. Th e comfy rooms all
have TV, a/c and hot water. Double $20

EATING
Inexpensive food stalls at the market, on the main road
just south of the bridge, are open from early morning to
mid-afternoon, and the night market sets up outside the
east entrance to the market from late afternoon.
Arunras Hotel National Route 6 T 062 961294. Lively
hotel restaurant, busy with both locals and tourists. The
menu features a big range of excellent Chinese and Khmer
dishes (mains $3-4.50), plus superb coffee - but no
Western options. Daily 7am-10pm.
Run Amok! Dekchaumeas, near the Riverside T 017
916219, W facebook.com/runamok.kh. Run by a Kiwi-
Khmer couple, with excellent hamburgers (meat and
veggie) and pizzas, plus mouthwatering Khmer dishes and
good ice cream - try the palm sugar and peanut flavour.
Mains around $3-6. Daily 5-10pm.