Vietnam - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 873

during the American War. Nowadays, the
beach attracts day-trippers from Da Nang
and Hoi An, especially from September
to December when rough sea conditions
make the waves ideal for surfing. May to
July is the best time for swimming, when
the sea is calmest.
A further 3km south from Da Nang is
the quieter Non Nuoc beach, where there
is a cluster of seafood restaurants .

by the animals from the Chinese zodiac
and the vast, dark caverns are scented
with incense and guano. Head right,
descend the crumbling, steep steps then
squeeze through a narrow passage and
you'll find yourself in another cavern
where green-skinned devils are torturing
sinners, two of them sawing a figure in
half - a creepy and compelling spectacle.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By plane Da Nang's international airport ( W danang
airportonline.com) is 3km southwest of the centre and
served by taxis (55,000VND) and xe om (40,000VND).
Destinations Buon Ma Thuot (daily; 1hr 10min); Da Lat
(daily; 1hr 20min); Hanoi (8 daily; 1hr 10min); HCMC (15
daily; 1hr 10min); Hong Kong (3 daily; 3hr 30min); Nha
Trang (daily; 1hr 20min); Siem Reap (daily; 1hr 45min);
Singapore (3 daily; 3hr 45min).
By bus Long-distance buses operate from the Lien Tinh
bus station 2.5km from town. Take a xe om (25,000VND) to
get there. Open-tour buses generally drop off passengers
at the Cham Museum on Bach Dang. Sinh Tourist (see
below) organizes open-tour bus tickets (2 daily north and
south) and tickets for once-daily a/c buses to Savannakhet
(2.30pm; 22hr; 750,000VND) and Vientiane (2.30pm;
24hr; 800,000VND) via the Lao Bao (see box, p.392) and
Cau Treo border crossings (see box, p.388).
Destinations Da Lat (14-17hr); Hanoi (19hr); HCMC
(24hr); Hoi An (45min-1hr); Hue (3hr); Kon Tum (6hr);
Nha Trang (13hr); Savannakhet (2 daily; 22hr); Vientiane
(2 daily; 24hr).
By train The train station is 1.5km west of town at 128
Hai Phong. A xe om into town will cost you 20,000VND. The
train journey from Da Nang to Hue, hugging the cliff over
the dramatic Hai Van Pass with the vast expanse of the
ocean to your right, is one of the most impressive stretches
of railway in Vietnam, a journey well worth taking in itself.
Destinations Hanoi (5 daily; 15-21hr); HCMC (5 daily;
17-23hr); Hue (8 daily; 2hr 30min-4hr); Nha Trang (5
daily; 9-12hr).

Nui Son Tra (Monkey Mountain)
he Son Tra peninsula, crowned with
Monkey Mountain, sits at the northern
end of China Beach. It's possible to
drive up almost to the peak (the summit
itself is occupied by American radar
domes still used by the Vietnamese
military) for a great view of the bay. A
coastal road runs to Linh Ung , a
monastery overlooked by an immense
standing statue of the Buddha.

11

Marble Mountains (Ngu Hanh Son)
Just west of Non Nuoc beach there are
five karst mountains, riddled with natural
caves that were converted into Hindu
and, later, Buddhist temples, and topped
with pagodas. he largest and most
famous is Thuy Son (daily 7am-5pm;
20,000VND). Climb the steep, uneven
staircase, go through Ong Chon gate to
the Linh Ong Pagoda, and follow the
path behind it to the Tang Chon Cave to a
beautiful grotto concealing a Buddha
statue. he path to the rest of huy Son's
temples is hidden behind the Xa Loi
Pagoda, reachable by a walkway to the
left of the Ong Chon gate. he main
paths leads you past the Limh Nam cave
to the attractive Tam Thai Tu Pagoda .
From here, one path leads up to the Vong
Giang Dai viewpoint that offers great
views of the other Marble Mountains.
Another path branches off towards the
large Huyen Khong Cave guarded by
statues of mandarins; the chamber on the
right was used as a Viet Cong hospital.
Another steep, winding path leads you
down from the Tam hai Tu Pagoda to
the main road.
Near the infrequently working elevator
is the sometimes overlooked Am Phu Cave
(20,000VND). he entrance is guarded

INFORMATION AND TOURS
Tour operators For tours by motorbike, tickets and
information, Sinh Tourist, 154 Bach Dang (daily 7am-9pm;
T 0511 3843258, W thesinhtourist.vn), is your best bet.
Services Vietcombank, 140 Le Loi, has exchange facilities
and an ATM.

ACCOMMODATION
Duc Anh Hotel 387 Le Quang Dao T 0511 3958971
W ducanhhotel.com. With great sea views, this bright,
modern hotel overlooks My Khe Beach. Try a nd na b a room
with balcony access on the top floor. Double $20