Vietnam - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 854

bends, and landslides are common,
causing serious delays even after a short
spell of rain. Public transport takes the
form of rickety old minivans crowded to
twice their capacity, so the best way to
travel is by motorbike. You can then
detour off Highway 6 and on to smaller
back roads, with even more stunning
scenery and many Hmong, Black and
White hai, Dao and Muong villages,
where it is usually possible to stay
overnight in a local house. It takes at least
a week to make the journey, and ten days
to do so comfortably. Guided motorbike
and mountain-bike tours of the region are
offered by agents in Hanoi (see p.844)
for between $100 and $125 per day
all-inclusive. Northern Vietnam's final
frontier is the Ha Giang province that
borders China, with remote, spectacular
mountain scenery; travel here requires
permits due to to its proximity to
the border.

INTO CHINA: LAO CAI
The border crossing from Lao Cai into
China is via the Hekou border gate
(daily 7am-10pm), on the east bank of the
Red River, 3km from the train station
(around 25,000VND by xe om ). Queues at
immigration are longest in the early
morning. Inside the Vietnamese border
post building, there's an exchange desk
that deals in dong, dollars and yuan.
There's a bank across the street, and
plenty of women hanging around eager
to change cash. Across on the Chinese
side, several high-quality a/c buses depart
for Kunming , 520km away, from Hekou
bus station, 100m from the border
crossing (three in the morning, two
sleeper services in the evening around
7pm; 12hr; $25). Visas for both countries
must be arranged in advance. China is
one hour ahead of Vietnam.

11

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Unless you arrive in the evening there's no need to stay in
Lao Cai. The road outside the train station is lined with
mediocre, overpriced restaurants.
Hotel Terminus (Hiep Van) 342 Nguyen Hue T 020
3835470. Clean, spacious rooms opposite the t rain station.
Rate includes breakfast. Double 300,000VND
Peter Chef By the main train station building. A
reasonably priced Vietnamese joint serving a mix of
noodle, rice, meat and fish dishes. Mains from 70,000VND.
Daily noon-10pm.

LAO CAI
he Red River Valley runs northwest
from Hanoi, and after 300km, pushing
ever deeper into the mountains, you
eventually reach the border town of
LAO CAI , renowned for cross-border trade
and all manner of illegal smuggling.
Travellers tend to pass through en route
to Sa Pa or if catching the bus into China
en route to Kunming.

SA PA AND AROUND
Forty kilometres from Lao Cai, the small
market town of SA PA perches dramatically
on the western edge of a high plateau,
overshadowed by imposing Fansipan ,
Vietnam's highest peak. A former hilltop
retreat for French rulers, Sa Pa enjoys a
refreshing climate and magnificent
scenery, with vertiginous mountains
plunging into lush green valleys terraced
with rice paddies. From here it is possible
to visit the outlying minority villages of
H'mong, Dao, Tay and Giay peoples. Sa
Pa is loveliest between July and September,
when the rice terraces are green with crops,
but is also busiest at that time; winter can
be cold, but at least the town doesn't feel
overcrowded. Weekdays throughout the
year are quieter than weekends.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By train Most people arrive on the night train from Hanoi;
the train station is on the east bank of the Red River, just
3km south of the Chinese border. Several travel agents
hook their own air-conditioned, soft-berth carriages up
to the three nightly trains between Hanoi and Lao Cai
( W et-pumpkin.com, W fansipantrain.com or W livitrans
.com; from $30/berth). Vietnam Railways' (VR) carriages
are almost as good; buy your tickets (hard a/c sleeper
290,000VND, soft a/c sleeper 350,000VND) in Hanoi,
purchasing the return ticket at Sa Pa's VR o ce, or the
train station in Lao Cai.
By bus Minibuses to Sa Pa (1hr; 50,000VND) meet the
morning Hanoi trains; bear in mind that drivers have
been known to overcharge foreign tourists, so if possible,
double check with a local how much they're paying.
Many hotels in Sa Pa offer pick-up if you've booked a
room with them.