Vietnam - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 852

(30,000VND), home to over seventy
species of bird, and mammals such as
civets, deer, wild boar and the world's
most endangered primate - the golden-
headed or Cat Ba langur - with only sixty
or so remaining. he park entrance is
13km along the road from Cat Ba Town.
Companies such as Cat Ba Ventures and
Asia Outdoors (see below) run half- and
full-day hiking tours of the park;
otherwise it's worth hiring an experienced
and English-speaking guide to explore the
park (around 270,000VND for a full
day) from the ranger station to point out
the wildlife. here are several short hikes
in the park, including one to Trung Trang
Cave and a rewarding 18km hike up one
of the peaks. Many guided hikes either
finish at or stop for lunch at the remote
minority village of Viet Hai , where
Whisper of Nature (see p.856) is located.
You'll need good boots, lots of water and
mosquito repellent. he going can be
quite tough, and trekking should be
avoided after heavy rains, when the paths
can be slippery and treacherous. You can
reach the park independently via the
green QH public buses that depart from
the hydrofoil dock in Cat Ba Town (at
5am, 8.10am, 11.10am and 4pm;
20min; 20,000VND) or by your own
rented motorbike or scooter.
En route to the park, 10km north of
Cat Ba Town, is the Hospital Cave (daily
7am-4.30pm, 15,000VND), a three-
storey construction within a natural cave
that served as a hospital and shelter for
Viet Cong leaders from 1965 to 1975. It's
well worth paying the extra 30,000VND
for a guide who'll point out where the
cinema and swimming pool used to be
and explain what each of the seventeen
spartan bunker rooms was used for.

foreigners are very much allowed to take the bus. Tourist
boats from Bai Chay dock too late to take the last bus,
leaving you at the mercy of xe om and taxi drivers, who've
been known to charge as much as $50 to take you to Cat
Ba Town, though onward bus transport from the pier can
be arranged via Cat Ba Ventures (see below).
Destinations Fast boats to Hai Phong (4 daily; 45min);
ferries to Bai Chay (hourly May-Sept, 3 daily rest of year;
1hr); ferries to Tuan Chau, Ha Long City (5 daily; 1hr); boat
and bus to Hanoi (4 daily; 4hr 30min).
Information There are several ATMs in town, including
an Agribank at no. 209 on the waterfront.

GETTING AROUND
By bus QH Green Buses run between Cat Ba Town and Gia
Luan pier (5 daily; 25,000VND); for the latest timetables,
check with Cat Ba Ventures (see below).
By motorbike The most e cient way to get around is
by renting a motorbike or scooter from most hotels;
rental is around US$5 per day and Cat Ba's roads have
very little tra c.

11

TOURS AND ACTIVITIES
Tours and treks Popular tours include full-day treks
through the national park, with lunch in Viet Hai village,
and a boat trip back to Cat Ba Town via Lan Ha Bay ($18
including lunch and kayaking). A day venture into Lan Ha
and Ha Long Bay, including kayaking, swimming and a
visit to one of the bay's most dramatic caves, Ho Ba Ham,
costs $28-31, food included. Cat Ba Ventures (daily
7.30am-8pm; T 0313 3688237, W catbaventures.com),
no. 223 along the main waterfront, is hands down the
best operator when it comes to small-group cruises, with
their highly professional management, English-speaking
guides and well-organized tours that don't feel rushed
or whisk you off to commission-paying pearl farms. Asia
Outdoors (see below) also offer recommended tours for
small numbers, but they are particularly well known for
rock climbing. The website W catba.com.vn has informa-
tion on sights, activities and accommodation.
Sea kayaking Some shops and hotels near the seafront
can rent out two-person sea kayaks ($10/day) for self-
powered paddling around the bay.
Rock climbing The limestone outcrops at Ba Island, Lan
Ha Bay and Ha Long Bay are internationally renowned sites
for amateur and professional climbers. Asia Outdoors,
no. 222 (daily 9am-8pm; T 091 3688450; W asiaoutdoors
.com.vn), is run by two experienced American climbers,
who have developed an extensive network of rock-climbing
routes and bouldering sites in the area suitable for all skill
levels. They can also incorporate boat trips (necessary to
access some of the climbing sites), deep-water soloing,
kayaking, trekking, and the occasional beach party into
their highly recommended, tailor-made packages.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By boat Coming from Hai Phong, fast boats pull in at Cai
Vieng harbour at the island's western point, about 20km
from town, and are met by a bus that whisks passengers off
to Cat Ba Town. Ferries from Tuan Chau (accessed from Ha
Long City) and tourist boats from Bai Chay (Ha Long City)
land at the Gia Luan pier, in the north of the island, 40km
from Cat Ba Town. Public QH Green Buses leave Gia Luan at
6am, 1.10pm, 4pm and 5pm (25,000VND) for Cat Ba Town,
and despite what some unscrupulous locals might tell you,