Vietnam - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 847

90,000VND per boat; each boat carries
two people. However, many tourists
complain of constant hassle to buy
refreshments and handicrafts; be firm
from the outset.
Follow the road another 2km beyond
the boat dock to visit the cave-pagoda of
Bich Dong (free), where stone-cut steps
lead up a cliff face peppered with shrines
to the cave entrance. hree Buddhas sit
unperturbed on their lotus thrones beside
a head-shaped rock, which bestows
longevity if touched.
he most enjoyable way to reach Tam
Coc is to rent a bicycle ($2-3/day) or
motorbike ($7-10/day) from a Ninh
Binh guesthouse, which should also be
able to provide a photocopied map. he
turning, marked by four large pillars, is
4km south of the town centre on
Highway 1. A xe om from Ninh Binh will
cost about 100,000VND all-in. If your
next stop is Hoa Lu, you can take a back
road for a spectacular 10km ride through
rice fields, karst scenery and villages; the
30km round trip is easily done in a day.
his route starts in the village halfway
down the road between Highway 1 and
the boat landing; follow the signs for
Troung Yen village to reach Hoa Lu.

right over the bridge and follow the dirt
track for about 4km to the first village.
Here, a left turn leading to a concrete
bridge will take you back to Ninh Binh,
while the road straight ahead continues
for another 6km to Tam Coc.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By bus The bus station is on Le Dai Hanh, east of the Van
River, less than 1km by xe om from Tran Hung Dao. From
here, public buses depart every 20min for Hanoi's Giap Bat
and Luong Yen stations. Open-tour buses en route to and
from Hanoi and points south, including Hue, Da Nang, Hoi
An and HCMC (all 2 daily), pick up and drop off at their
associated hotels.
Destinations

11

Hai Phong (several daily; 3hr); Hanoi (every
20min; 2hr 30min).
By train The station is east of the Van River at the
western end of Hang Hoa Tham, a short xe om ride from
Tran Hung Dao.
Destinations Da Nang (5 daily; 14hr); Hanoi (4 daily; 2hr
30min); HCMC (5 daily; 40hr); Hue (5 daily; 12hr 30min);
Nha Trang (5 daily; 24hr).
Information The Vietcombank, on the main strip on Tran
Hung Dao, has an ATM.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
There are very few good independent restaurants in
Ninh Binh, but the hotels listed here all offer decent food.
A string of goat meat ( thit de ) restaurants line the road
3km out of town; this local speciality is served with rice
paper and herbs. Atmospheric bia hoi stands line the
riverside just north of Hong Phong. All these hotels can
assist with tours, car and motorbike rental, as well as
onward transport.
Canh Dieu Hotel 74 Nguyen Van Cu T 030 3888278,
W canhdieuhotel.com.vn. E ciently run budget hotel
with helpful staff who arrange tours of the area. The a/c
units double as a heater and there are nice little e xtras ,
such as welcome drinks and map of the area. Double $20
Kim Lien Guest House 54 Van Thanh Phuc Thinh T 030
6250800, W guesthousekimlien.com. Friendly, family-run
guesthouse that makes a great base due to the owner's
knowledge of the area (a book's been compiled for the
guests' peru sal). Rooms are clean and perfectly comfort-
able. Double $17
Thanh Binh Hotel 31 Luong Van Tuy T 030 3872439,
W thanhbinhhotelnb.com.vn. Clean and spacious accom-
modation with breakfast and internet included; the rooms
in the new wing ($20) boast great views from the top
floors. Good-quality mount ain bikes for rent ($2/day), as
well as motorbikes. Double $15
Than Thuy's Guesthouse 53 Le Hong Phong T 030
3871811, W hotelthanhthuy.com. Good spot for meeting

Hoa Lu
hirteen kilometres northwest of Ninh
Binh stands Hoa Lu (15,000VND), site of
the tenth-century capital of an early,
independent Vietnamese kingdom called
Dai Co Viet. he fortified royal palaces of
the Dinh and Le kings are now in ruins,
but their dynastic temples, seventeenth-
century copies of eleventh-century
originals, still rest quietly in a narrow
valley surrounded by hills. Opposite the
temples, steps lead up “Saddle Mountain”
for a panoramic view of Hoa Lu.
he quickest way out to Hoa Lu is by
xe om (260,000VND or so round trip),
but going by bicycle is another option.
Follow Highway 1 for 6km; then it's a
pleasant ride on paved back roads west of
the highway, following signs to Truong
Yen village and Hoa Lu (13km in total).
You can then cycle back along the Sao
Khe River: take the paved road heading
east directly in front of the temples, turn