Vietnam - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 841

By public bus Hanoi has three main bus stations. Luong
Yen bus station (Tran Quang Khai at Nguyen Khoai), 3km
southeast of the Old Quarter, serves the south and the
east, including Ninh Binh, Hue, Da Lat, Nha Trang and
HCMC, as well as Cat Ba Island. Northeast services to Hai
Phong and Bai Chay/Ha Long Bay and Lao Cai operate from
Gia Lam station (Ngoc Lam), 3km northeast of the centre
on the east bank of the Red River. My Dinh bus station
(Pham Hung), 7km west of the city, serves northern and
western destinations, such as Dien Bien Phu and Mai Chau,
with onwards sleeper buses to Laos from Dien Bien Phu
(see p.863). Xe om rides from these bus stations to the
centre vary between 40,000-70,000VND. For popular
destinations, it's best to buy tickets the day before.
Destinations Bai Chay (2 hourly; 3hr 30min); Da Lat (daily
at 11am & 6pm; 24hr); Da Nang (hourly between 2pm &
6pm; 13hr); Hai Phong (2 hourly; 2hr); HCMC (daily at
11am, 3pm & 6pm; 36hr); Hue (hourly between 2pm &
6pm; 12hr); Lao Cai (daily at 1 & 7pm; 9hr); Mai Chau (daily
at 6.30am & 2.30pm; 2hr); Nha Trang (daily at 10am &
6pm; 22hr); Ninh Binh (2 hourly; 2hr 30min).
By train Trains to and from the south use the main station
(Ga Hang Co) at 120 Le Duan, 1km southwest of the Old
Quarter. If you're arriving by train, you'll exit onto Le Duan
(exit A). Trains for Lao Cai (for Sa Pa) and China leave from
the separate Tran Quy Cap station, just behind the main
train station (exit B). Eastbound trains to Hai Phong run
either from the Gia Lam station, on the east side of Song
Hong River, or from Lon Bien, on the west side of the river.
A taxi from the main train station to the Old Quarter should
be no more than 40,000VND, and a xe om 25,000VND.
Book tickets early, especially for sleeping berths to Hue
and HCMC.
Destinations

many hotels and travellers' cafés in the Old Quarter. It's
best to pay the minuscule charge at a supervised bike
park ( gui xe dap ), located on most main roads. Parking is
banned on Trang Tien and Hang Khay; elsewhere, it's
only allowed within designated areas. Motorbikes are
available from guesthouses and small tour agencies for
about $7-10/day. Park in supervised motorbike parks
( gui xe may ).
By bus Hanoi's a/c city buses are little-used by tourists
and only useful for transport between the long-distance
bus stations (every 15min 5am-5.30pm; 5000VND one-
way). Xe Buyt Hanoi is a bus route map on sale at the Thang
Long Bookshop (see p.847) or see W hanoibus.com.vn.

INFORMATION AND TOURS
It's best to go to one of the reliable travellers' cafés for
information on visas, tours and transport. State-run
“tourist o ces” such as Vietnam Tourism are only
interested in selling substandard tours, as are the batch
of duplicate-name travel agencies, such as the plethora
of fake “Sinh Cafés” in the Old Quarter, trading on the
reputation of the original.
Travellers' cafés Most travellers' cafés organize bargain-
basement tours to the Perfume Pagoda ($20), Ha Long Bay
(2 days; $55-110) and the Sa Pa area (3-4 days; $100-
150), though for the last two, it's far better to organize
tours from Cat Ba Island (see p.853) and Sa Pa (see p.857),
respectively. Sinh Tourist , at 52 Luong Ngoc Quyen ( T 04
39261568, W thesinhtourist.vn) and 64 Tran Nhat Duat
( T 04 39290394), is the pick of the bunch.
Specialized tour agencies Hidden Hanoi, 137 Nghi
Ta m ( T 091 2254045, W hiddenhanoi.com.vn), organizes
several excellent walking tours ($20-25/hr), among
others in the French Quarter and Kim Lien district, as well
as hands-on cooking lessons ($50). Hanoi Street Foods
( W hanoistreetfoods.com), at 137 Hang Bac, organize
enjoyable daily tours (11am & 5pm; 2hr 30min) of local
street food venues for $20/person; you get to sample five
or so local dishes and finish off with a strong Vietnamese
coffee as your guide explains each dish. Free Wheelin'
Tours ( T 091 39262743, W freewheelin-tours.com) at 9
Hang Vai, above Tet bar (see p.847), organize motorbike
tours around the north of Vietnam, ranging from four to
fourteen days. The reputable Flamingo Travel ( T 091
92214554, W flamingotravel.com.vn), at 66 Dao Duy Tu,
also get rave reviews for their inexpensive motorcycle
tours of the country. Handspan Adventure Travel T 091
39262828, W handspan.com), at 78 ma May, specialize
in community-based tourism in northern Vietnam, sea
kayaking in Ha Long Bay, mountain biking and trekking
tours, while Ethnic Travel ( T 091 39261951, W ethnic
travel.com.vn), at 35 Hang Giay, has a good reputation for
small-group, off-the-beaten-track tours of the north,
trekking, cycling and also cooking tours.

11

Beijing (Tues & Fri at 6.30pm; 42hr);
Da Nang (5 daily; 14-18hr); Hai Phong (daily; 2hr 30min);
HCMC (5 daily; 30-41hr); Hue (6 daily; 13-15hr); Lao Cai
(5 daily; 8hr 30min-10hr 15min); Nha Trang (5 daily;
23-31hr); Ninh Binh (4 daily; 2hr-2hr 30min); Vinh (7
daily; 5hr-6hr 40min).

GETTING AROUND
By cyclo Cyclos are banned from some roads in central
Hanoi, notably around Hoan Kiem Lake and in some parts
of the Old Quarter, so don't be surprised if you seem to be
taking a circuitous route; city authorities are threatening to
ban them altogether. Always agree on a price in advance
(about 30,000VND for a short journey) and avoid using
cyclos at night.
By taxi Metered taxis wait outside the more upmarket
hotels and at the north end of Hoan Kiem Lake and cost
about 15,000VND/km; prices are displayed on the side of
the taxi. Reputable companies include Mai Linh Taxis
T 04 38616161 and Thang Nga Taxis T 04 38215215.
By bike Bicycles can be rented for around $3/day from