Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Several private companies have
designated first-class “tourist carriages”
attached to the night trains between
Hanoi and Lao Cai (for Sa Pa). S3-S8
trains have a choice of soft-sleeper berths
and soft seats with air conditioning or
fan; hard-sleeper berths and hard seats
have fan only. On the modern S1 and S2
trains, all compartments, even hard-
sleeper, have air conditioning, and
reclining soft seats are located in new
double-decker carriages. Booking ahead
for sleeper berths is essential; you may
need your passport if you buy a ticket at
the station.
Fares vary according to class and speed
of the train. On S3 and S4 express trains, a
hard seat from Hanoi to HCMC costs
625,000VND, a soft seat is 745,000VND,
a hard sleeper is 1,230,000VND and a
soft-sleeper costs 1,586,000VND. Fares
on slower trains tend to be cheaper; fares
can go up considerably just before, during
or after Tet.
risk of an accident is very real (see box
above). Organized motorbike tours can
be a better option (see p.832); trail bikes
rent for around US$20/day and
comprehensive travel insurance is
essential. If you go it alone, check
everything carefully, especially brakes,
lights, horn and the small print on your
insurance policy, and carry a repair kit.
Repair shops are ubiquitous - look for a
Honda sign or ask for sua chua xe may
(motorbike repairs). Fuel ( xang ) is
around $1 (21,000VND) per litre and
widely available.
he theory is that you drive on the
right , though in practice motorists and
cyclists swerve and dodge wherever they
want, using no signals and their horn as a
surrogate brake. Right of way invariably
goes to the biggest vehicle on the road;
pull over onto the hard shoulder to avoid
them. Road conditions can be extremely
poor in rural areas; watch out for
livestock, giant potholes, children and
landslides. Police frequently fine
motorists for real and imagined offences,
including speeding. If you are involved
in an accident and it is deemed to be
your fault, the penalties can involve
major fines.
11
VEHICLE RENTAL
Bicycles are available from hotels and tour
agencies in most towns for $2 to $3 per
day. Small motorbike rental ($6-10/day)
is possible in most major destinations,
but you have to be confident to cope
with the hazardous conditions on
Vietnam's roads and be aware that the
LOCAL TRANSPORT
Taxis are common in big cities, and
inexpensive by Western standards, charging
around 10,000-15,000VND per
kilometre. Use a reputable company, such
as Mai Linh, as some taxis have been
known to use rigged meters that run at
lightning pace. Be wary of drivers insisting
that your hotel is “closed” or “full”, and
taking you to another one;
this is usually part of a commission scam
- always be firm with your directions. Real
shoestring travellers may use some city bus
services, which can be handy for transport
between major bus stations and shuttling
to and from the airports, though travelling
by local bus can be extremely time-
consuming. Other modes of transport
include the ubiquitous xe om (pronounced:
zay-ohm) or motorbike taxi. Drivers loiter
at bus stations and cruise along the roads to
solicit custom. Negotiate the price before
getting on; a short ride should cost around
WEAR A HELMET
A shocking eleven thousand people or so
die every year on Vietnamese roads, and a
further thirty thousand are seriously
injured. Tra c accidents are the leading
cause of death, severe injury and
evacuation for foreigners. Insist on a
helmet before renting a motorbike or
getting on the back of a xe om , and check
that the chin straps are properly adjusted
and fastened before taking off. Wearing a
helmet is compulsory, though the law
doesn't specify the type of helmet, as a
result of which many wear nothing more
than glorified eggshells. Cheap plastic
helmets can be bought in nearly every
town for as little as 50,000VND; for more
serious protection, you can pick up an
imported sturdier helmet in Hanoi and
HCMC for $25-35.
 
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