Thailand - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 815

Ko Tarutao
Hilly Ko Tarutao , the largest of the
islands, is wild and covered in rainforest
and has perfect beaches all along its 26km
west coast. Boats dock at Ao Pante , on
the northwestern side, where you'll find
the park headquarters, a visitor centre,
restaurant and a small shop, all of which
have a slightly institutional feel; there is,
in fact, an old prison on the island, now
being reclaimed by the jungle. You can
stay in the national park bungalows
(B600-1200), more basic longhouses
(B500, sleeps four), or tents (B225;
bedding and pillows B50/person), or
pitch your own tent (B30/person/night);
kayaks and mountain bikes are available.
Behind the settlement, the steep,
half-hour Tolkienesque climb to To-Boo
Cliff is a must, especially at sunset, for its
fine views. Boat trips, arranged at the
park headquarters (1hr; B500/boat; fits
10 people), venture up a bird-filled,
mangrove-lined canal to Crocodile Cave.
A half-hour walk south from Ao Pante
brings you to the quiet, white-sand bays
of Ao Jak and Ao Molae , the latter with
bungalows (B600) and a good restaurant;
beyond (2hr from Ao Pante; look out for
the road behind the house at the south
end of Ao Molae) lies Ao Sone , a timeless,
all-natural beach environment, backed by
a steep forested escarpment. he Ao
Pante visitor centre can arrange transport
by road, usually in an open truck, to
several of the island's beaches, charging
B50/person to Ao Molae and around
B400/vehicle to Ao Sone.

for B30/person). Should you wish to
venture further afield, the visitor centre
can give information on forest trails and
waterfalls, and can organize excellent
snorkelling trips to nearby islands (from
B1500 for up to 8 people).

Ko Lipe
Home to around a thousand chao ley or
sea gypsies (a traditionally nomadic
group, with animistic beliefs and their
own language), tiny Ko Lipe , just 2km
south of Ko Adang, is something of a
frontier maverick. It attracts ever more
travellers with one dazzling beach -
Hat Pattaya , a southwesterly crescent
of squeaky-soft white sand, though
sometimes clogged with longtails - a
relaxed, anything-goes atmosphere and
mellow nightlife.
Lipe's main drag is Walking Street , a
paved path lined with tourist businesses
between the eastern end of Hat Pattaya
and the south end of the island village,
which lies on east-facing Sunrise , an
exposed, largely featureless beach that
gives access to some good snorkelling
around Ko Gra. Paved tracks run both
from here and from the far west end of
Pattaya across to Sunset beach, a shady,
attractive spot with good views northwest
to Ko Adang.
ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By boat From Pak Bara, boats (mostly speedboats; 1hr
30min; B650) leave for Lipe twice daily in high season,
once daily in low season. Generally, they'll call in at
Tarutao upon request (B400 from Pak Bara, B500 from
Lipe). In high season, there's one daily ferry (5hr; B1700)
and two daily speedboat services (3-4hr; B1900) to Lipe
from Ko Lanta, as well as boats from Langkawi (see p.445).
At Ko Lipe, you are usually transferred onto a longtail:
B50 to Ko Lipe shore, up to B200 to Ko Adang. To get to Pak
Bara from Trang, either take the direct high-season a/c
minibus opposite the train station (1hr 30min), or catch a
Satun-bound bus (2hr-2hr 30min) to Langu and change
to a red songthaew for the 10km hop to the port. From
Satun, frequent buses and a/c minibuses travel the 50km
to Langu.
Tourist information The best travel agent and source of
information on the island is Koh Lipe Thailand (Boi's Travel;
T 089 464 5854, W kohlipethailand.com), which has two
outlets on Walking Street, with the main one hard by
Hat Pattaya.

10

Ko Adang
Ko Adang , an untamed island covered in
rainforest where you really can get away
from it all, has a national park station at
Laem Sone beach, the luxurious
white-sand curve of its southeast coast.
Facilities include an inexpensive
cafeteria-style restaurant, a visitor centre,
great-value en-suite bungalows
overlooking the sea (from B600) and
simpler longhouses (B400 sleeps three).
here are also tents for rent (B225;
bedding and pillows B50/person), which
can be pitched in a pleasant casuarina
grove fronting the beach (pitch your own