Thailand - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 809

boats do the ten-minute shuttle from Hat
Yao to Ao Ton Sai between 8am to 8pm
(B100 per person, minimum 2 people),
and from Ao Ton Sai to Hat Yao till all
hours of the morning, but it's also
possible to walk between the two in half
an hour. At low tide you can get to Hat
Yao along the rocky shore, from Laem
Hin, past many quaint secluded beaches.
he island's single road follows an inland
route to the east end of Hat Yao from
he Rock junction in the village; it's a hot,
hilly and unshaded forty-minute walk.

The Rock T 081 607 3897. Traveller-oriented hangout
behind a landmark boat-shaped bar-restaurant, offering
some of the cheapest beds on the island, in large mixed-
sex dorms; up to seventeen bunk beds are crammed in
each, but there are fans and lockers. Also has a few singles
(B350 ) and doubles with shared, cold-water bathrooms.
Dorm B250 , double B500
Tara Inn Ton Sai village T 075 601021. A budget
favourite for many years; fan rooms are spacious if a little
on the tired side. Most bungalows have large balconies
and views over the bay with more expe nsive a/c options
(B1200) having the better views. Double B450
Tee House East end of Ton Sai village, just north of the
mosque T 084 851 5721. Small but clean rooms (with even
smaller, hot-water bathrooms) decorated in earth tones,
some with driftwood balconies, some with a/ c. Crep es,
baguettes and detox shakes for breakfast. Double B700

10

Hat Rantee and Ao Toh Koh
For those wishing to escape the
maddening crowds, the small, east-coast
bays of Hat Rantee and Ao Toh Koh offer
affordable tranquillity. Transfers from Ao
Ton Sai cost B800 by longtail boat.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By boat Scheduled ferries connect Ko Phi Phi Don with Ao
Nang and Railay (1 daily; 2hr; B350-450); Ko Lanta (1-4
daily; 1hr 30min; B300-350); Krabi (4 daily; 1hr 30min-2hr;
B300); and Phuket (3-5 daily; 1hr 30min-2hr 30min; B300).
All boats dock at Ao Ton Sai, where there's a B20 entry fee.

HAT YAO
Long Beach Bungalows Central Hat Yao T 089 973
6425. The least expensive place to stay on Long Beach, on
a great stretch of beach with an attached dive shop
( W longbeachdivers.com). The cheapest of the tightly
packed but recently renovat ed ro oms have fans and
cold-water bathrooms. Double B800
Phi Phi Hill Resort On the southeastern tip of Ko Phi Phi,
up a very steep stairway T 075 618203, W phiphihill.com.
This quiet place occupying a large headland plateau is a
real no-frills affair, with sturdy, simply furnished, wooden
bungalows on stilts. The cheapest have fans and cold
showers and no view. The restaurant, with ample decking,
looks across to Phi P hi Leh. Closes for some of the rainy
season. Double B750

DIVING
Ko Phi Phi is an exceptionally good diving and snorkelling
site, and you can arrange day-dives (from B2500) and
four-day Openwater courses (B12,900) through Viking
Divers, east of the pier in Ao Ton Sai ( T 081 719 3375,
W vikingdiversthailand.com). As well as responsible,
small-group dive trips and courses, Phi Phi Adventure Club
in Ao Ton Sai ( T 081 895 1334, W phi-phi-adventures
.com) offers half-day snorkelling trips to swim with sharks
or to Phi Phi Leh (B800).

AO TOH KO AND HAT RANTEE
Ao Toh Ko Beach Resort T 081 537 0528, W tohko
beachresort.com. The exceptionally welcoming family
who run this place keep people staying and returning -
and they're great cooks too. The comfortable range of
accommodation kicks off with attractive, breezy, en-suite,
bamboo huts with mossi e nets, some sitting right over the
sea on the rocks. Double B1800
Rantee Sunrise Hat Rantee T 080 696 2711. A cluster
of unimpressive huts dotted along the hillside. All have
fans and cold showers, and the bathrooms have certainly
seen better days. However, the staff are friendly and the
location is good. Call in advance for free pick-up from
Ao Ton Sai. Double B800

ACCOMMODATION
Ko Phi Phi is one of Thailand's most expensive locations,
with Hat Yao the most exorbitant.

AO TON SAI
Coco's Close to the base of the viewpoint access steps T 075
601400, W facebook.com/ppcoco1. Reminiscent of a city
guesthouse, with a main two-storey block and diverse other
rooms, all painted bright white, clean and well o rganized.
All rooms are en suite, some have a/c. Double B600
Oasis Ton Sai village (no phone, walk-in only). Behind a
travel agent, almost opposite and just south of The Rock ,
the basic rooms here are cheap and decent enough
crashpads, so me w ith shared bathrooms. Minimum 2
nights. Double B300

EATING
Ao Ton Sai is the best place to eat on the island and offers
the most choice.
Lemongrass East of the pier, on the first north-south
alley. Friendly, basic restaurant with an open kitchen,