Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
to West Railay along any of the through-tracks. Krabi boats
do run during the rainy season, but it's safer to go via Ao
Nang instead. Ao Nang is much closer to Laem Phra Nang,
and longtails run from the beachfront here to West Railay
and Ao Ton Sai (10min) year-round.
the 1999 film, he Beach . hen, in
December 2004, they became headline
news again as the tsunami wreaked
inconceivable destruction on the two
main beaches of the larger island, Ko Phi
Phi Don , and on the densely packed
tourist village connecting them. he
island made a fast recovery, however, and
Ko Phi Phi is very much a thriving
tourist hub, perhaps too crowded for its
own good; budget accommodation is
sparse, particularly in peak season. Phi
Phi Don's sister island, Ko Phi Phi Leh ,
home to the magnificent Maya Bay, is an
uninhabited national marine park and
can only be visited on day-trips.
Detailed maps are available at travel
agents and dive shops in the village.
ACTIVITIES
Laem Phra Nang is Thailand's premier rock-climbing
centre, with seven hundred bolted sport-climbing routes
around Ton Sai and Railay (see W railay.com for a full
rundown). Of the many climbing schools that rent out
equipment and lead guided climbs, the most established
include King Climbers, just behind Flame Tree restaurant
on West Railay ( W railay.com/railay/climbing/climbing_
king_climbers.shtml), and Basecamp Tonsai on Ton Sai
( T 081 149 9745, W basecamptonsai.com). A typical half-
day introduction costs from B800.
10
ACCOMMODATION
During high season (Nov-Feb), it's essential to arrive on the
beaches as early in the morning as possible to get a room.
Most accommodation options have attached restaurants.
Pasook Resort Ao Ton Sai, on the inland road above and
parallel to the beach T 089 645 3013. Friendly, welcoming
spot, set on sloping lawns amid flowers and small trees,
offering en-suite, fan-cooled concrete rooms and
clapboard bungalo ws. Pri ces change frequently, according
to demand. Double B400
Railay Cabana T 075 621733. In a spacious, grassy,
tree-filled amphitheatre of majestic karst cliffs, a 5min
walk from East Railay beach on the track to Ton Sai,
this friendly and quiet family-run place offers simple
bungalows with mosquito nets, fan s, cold-water
bathrooms and big verandas. Double B500
Rapala Rock Wood Resort East Railay, north end.
Climb a steep flight of stairs to reach the thirty rough-
hewn, fan-cooled huts and rooms here, which are among
the cheapest on Railay, set around a scruffy, breezy garden
high above the beach, with some enjoying dramatic karst
views from their verandas. The restaurant serves Indian
food and bakes its own tasty biscuit s and bread. No
advance bookings, walk-ins only. Double B400
Sai Tong Resort Ton Sai, 400m along the track to East
Railay T 081 079 6583. This friendly, good-value little
place offers cheap, bare-basics, w oven- bamboo huts with
nets, fans and bathrooms. Double B250
Ao Ton Sai, Laem Hin and Ao Loh
Dalum
Ko Phi Phi Don would itself be two
islands were it not for the narrow isthmus
that connects the hilly expanses to the
east and west, separating the stunningly
symmetrical double bays of Ao Ton Sai to
the south and Ao Loh Dalum to the
north. he land between the two bays is
occupied by a commercial tourist village,
crammed with guesthouses, tour
operators, restaurants, bars, internet cafés
and dive centres.
East along the coast from the pier,
about ten minutes' walk down the main
track is the Laem Hin promontory which
overlooks a quieter patch of swimmable
beach. Just a few minutes' walk north
through Ton Sai village, seductively
curvaceous Ao Loh Dalum is much better
for swimming and sunbathing, though
the tide here goes out for miles. he
viewpoint that overlooks eastern
Ao Loh Dalum affords a magnificent
panorama over the twin bays, and every
evening a stream of people makes the
steep fifteen-minute climb up the steps
for sunset shots.
KO PHI PHI
One of southern hailand's most famous
destinations, the two spectacular Ko Phi
Phi islands, 40km south of Krabi and
48km east of southern Phuket, leapt to
international notoriety as the location for
Hat Yao (Long Beach)
With its luxurious white sand and large
reefs just 20m offshore, Hat Yao (Long
Beach), east along the coast from Ao Ton
Sai, is the best of Phi Phi's main beaches,
though it is extremely crowded. Longtail
 
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