Thailand - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 800

TSUNAMI MEMORIALS
In Bang Niang, on Highway 4, the small International Tsunami Museum (daily 9am-7pm;
B100) traces the geographical cause and aftermath of the tsunami. In a vacant lot, 100m north
of here, a beached police boat stands as a memorial to the tsunami's power - it was
propelled up here, 2km inland, while patrolling the waters in front of La Flora resort, where
Princess Ubolrat and her children, one of whom perished in the disaster, were staying.
The main local tsunami memorial is on the beach at Ban Nam Khem , the worst-hit village
in Thailand, where half of the four thousand inhabitants died in the waves; it lies 25km north of
Bang Niang up Highway 4, then left for a signposted 3km. Built by the Thai army, it's an
evocative installation: you walk down a path between a curling, 4m-high, concrete “wave” and
a grassy bank, representing the land, on which plaques commemorate individual victims.
Through a window in the concrete wave, a fishing boat looms over you - this “miracle boat”
was swept inland but stopped just short of devastating a house and its occupants.

10

ACCOMMODATION
BANG NIANG
Amsterdam Resort Soi 3 T 081 857 5881, W amsterdam
resortkhaolak.com. Just 200m inland from the beach, this
helpful Dutch-run little complex offers some of the
cheapest accommodation in Bang Niang and serves good
food. The rooms and red-brick bungalows of varying size
have either fans or a/c; most have hot water. Also has
internet and free wi-fi, cycle and motorbike rental and a
tour desk. Double B600

Khokkloi, from Khao Sok, in Takua Pa. On departure, you can
flag down most buses on the main road, but the Bangkok
services use a bus station at the far north end of Bang
Niang. A/c tourist minibuses to Krabi, Surat Thani and
elsewhere, can be arranged with any local tour company.
Destinations Bangkok (3 daily; 12hr); Phuket (20 daily;
2hr 30min); Ranong (8 daily; 2hr 30min-3hr); Takua Pa
(18 daily; 30min).

GETTING AROUND
By songthaew A few public songthaews shuttle
between Nang Thong and Bang Niang (where they have a
base in front of the market), charging B10-20, but mostly
they act as private taxis instead and charge B100 or more.
By motorbike Motorbikes are available for rent on all
beaches and through guesthouses (from B250/day).

NANG THONG
Jai Bungalows Towards the north end, on Highway 4
T 076 485390, E [e-mail]. A busy,
family-run place that offers some of the cheapest
accommodation in Khao Lak. The good-quality, decent-
sized, en-suite concrete bungalows are set around a lawn
dotted with trees behind the popular restaurant, quite
close t o the highway and about 600m from the beach.
Double B450
Phu Khao Lak Resort Towards the south end, east side
of Highway 4 T 076 485141, W phukhaolak.com. There's
a luxurious amount of space at this well-run place with
a swimming pool, where the large, spotlessly clean
bungalows sit prettily amid a grassy park-style coconut
plantation. Fan rooms have tiled floors and most have hot-
water bathro oms. About 500m walk from the beach.
Double B600
★

DIVING AND SNORKELLING
There are plenty of snorkelling and diving trips to the
spectacular reefs off Ko Similan (Nov-April), 2hr away by
speedboat. This archipelago of nine islands offers visibility
of up to 30m and an enormous diversity of underwater
species. The prices here include the national park fees.
IQ Dive Nang Thong, opposite McDonald's T 076 485614,
W iq-dive.com. Swiss-Thai-run PADI Five-Star Centre that
specializes in one-day dive trips to the Similans, on a big dive
boat (B5100; B3100 for snorkellers). Their Openwater courses
cost from B14,500 with one day spent diving the Similans.
Sea Dragon Dive Center Across from Nang Thong
supermarket T 076 485420, W seadragondivecenter.com.
Highly regarded and the longest-running Khao Lak dive
operator, Sea Dragon operate both budget and deluxe
live-aboard dive trips to the islands (3 days from B11,900).
PADI Openwater B9800, or B13,200 with one day spent
diving the Similans.
Similan Tour At Poseidon Bungalows , 7km south of
central Nang Thong, in Khao Lak T 087 895 9204,
W similantour.com. Highly recommended three-day live-
aboard snorkelling trips to the Similans (B8500).

Walkers Inn South end, on Highway 4 T 084 840
2689, E [e-mail]. The dorm beds with hot
showers at this Thai-Australian place are the best budget
option in town. Very friendly, free wi-fi, a good bar-
restaurant w ith a p ool tabl e, spor ts on TV and a decent cup
of tea. Dorm B200 , double B500

KHAO LAK
★

Poseidon Bungalows 7km south of central Nang
Thong T 087 895 9204 , W similantour.com. Surrounded
by rubber plantations and set above a partly sandy, partly