Thailand - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 779

he Gulf coast has a slightly different
climate from the rest of hailand, being hit
heavily by the northeast monsoon's rains,
especially in November, when it's best to
avoid this part of the country altogether.
Most times during the rest of the year
should see pleasant, if changeable, weather,
with some effects of the southwest
monsoon felt between May and October.

TREAT YOURSELF
Cococape Resort ( T 039 501003,
W kohmakcococape.com). Southern end
of Ao Suan Yai. Individually designed
rooms, bungalows and converted boats
situated on a rocky cliffside offering
stunning views over the bay or around
a lotus pond. Cococape has direct access
to good snorkelling via a small, wooden
pier with a sun deck and a cocktail bar as
well as easy access to the lovely Ko Pee
across the water. The beach is a short walk
away and there is a pool and two
restaura nts s erving Thai and Western food.
Double B900

★

10

PHETCHABURI
Straddling the River Phet about 120km
south of Bangkok, the provincial capital
of PHETCHABURI flourished as a
seventeenth-century trading post. Now a
centre for sweet manufacturing, it retains
much of its old-world charm, with fine
historic wats, wooden shophouses and a
nineteenth-century hilltop palace.

many with idiosyncrati c drift wood artwork, on a quiet
stretch of beach. Double B250
Monkey Island Ao Kao T 089 501 6030, W monkey
islandkohmak.com. A laidback, monkey-themed resort
which has a wide range of accommodation, starting with
nice, thatched wooden huts with shared facilities and
hammocks. There's also a beac h bar w ith live reggae and
Thai folk every evening. Double B350
★

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
he town's central sights cluster around
Chomrut Bridge ( Saphaan Chomrut ) and
the River Phet. About 700m east of the
bridge is the still-functioning
seventeenth-century Wat Yai Suwannaram
which contains a remarkable set of faded
old murals, depicting divinities ranged in
rows of ascending importance, in its
ordination hall and a well-preserved
scripture library built on stilts over a
pond. A further five minutes' walk east,
and then ten minutes' walk south, takes
you to the five crumbling stone prangs of
Wat Kamphaeng Laeng , elegant structures
of weathered earth-tone beauty. Built to
enshrine Hindu deities, they were later
adapted for Buddhist use. A short way
southwest of Chomrut Bridge stands
Phetchaburi's most fully restored and
important temple, Wat Mahathat ,
probably founded in the fourteenth
century. he five landmark prangs at its
heart are adorned with stucco figures of
mythical creatures, while miniature
angels and gods embellish the roofs of the
main viharn and bot.
About thirty minutes' walk west of
Chomrut Bridge is Khao Wang , the hill
on which stands Rama IV's palace - a
great place to explore. Quaint brick paths
wind through a forest of gnarled
frangipanis, some covered in brilliant

Suchanaree Resort Ao Suan Yai T 081 983 2629.
Friendly little place in a lush garden, set by a stream with
tables and deckchairs on the shady, beachfront lawn. The
small, basic but good-quality, shaggy-thatched wooden
bungalows all have fan, mozzie nets and bathrooms. The
island post o ce service, internet access, money-change
and transport bookings are all offered at Koh Mak Resort
next door. B650.

Southern
Thailand: the
Gulf coast
Southern Thailand's Gulf coast is famous
chiefly for the three fine islands of the
Samui archipelago: large and increasingly
upmarket Ko Samui , laidback Ko Pha
Ngan , site of monthly full-moon parties
at Hat Rin , and tiny Ko Tao , which is
encircled by some of hailand's best dive
sites. Other attractions seem minor by
comparison, but the historic town of
Phetchaburi has a certain charm, and the
grand old temples in Nakhon Si
Thammarat are worth a detour.