Thailand - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 773

any through-tra c and feels quiet
and private. Although not brilliant
for swimming, the rocky shore reveals
a good patch of sand when the
tide withdraws.
A ten-minute walk south along the
track from Ao Nuan brings you to
the horseshoe bay of Ao Wong Duan ,
the second most popular beach on the
island and dominated by pricey
bungalow resorts. Unfortunately its
sand, while white and fine, is almost
lost under a plethora of deck chairs,
stalls and crowds of sunbathers.
Ao Sang Thian (also known as
Candlelight Beach), a couple of
minutes' walk over the hill, has almost
none of the commerce of Wong Duan,
though its lovely, scenic shorefront is
fronted by an unbroken line of
bungalows and little restaurants.

HAT SAI KAEW
Laemyai Hut Home North end of Hat Sai Kaew T 038
644282. The fan bungalows here are the best of the
budget options on this beach, not least because they're
dotted widely around a shaded, sandy, plant-filled garden
in one of the prettiest spots, under the Laem Yai headland
at the quieter northern end. Fan bungalows are simple
but en suite and colourfully painted; a/c v ersion s, some
with hot showers, are also available. Double B900
Sinsamut Central Hat Sai Kaew T 038 644134,
W sinsamutkohsamed.com. Initial appearances aren't
encouraging here, with various types of rooms stuffed
into cheek-by-jowl little blocks behind the restaurant.
However, most are pleasant inside, with bright, colourful,
contemporary decor, and some have outdoor space,
notably the cheap and cute wo oden b ungalows with hot
showers, fridges and TV. Double B1100

10

AO HIN KOK AND AO PHAI
Jep's Bungalows South-central Ao Hin Kok T 038 644112.
A spread of options in unremarkable wood and concrete
rooms and bungalows, ranged up the shady, terraced,
sandy-soiled garden: fan-cooled with shared cold s hower s
or en-suite hot ones, or a/c with hot showers. Double B400
The Lost Resort Ao Phai, on the main track to Wong
Duan and Ao Prao T 038 644 041, W thelostresort.net.
A short way inland from Sea Breeze , this two-storey block
sits in a grove of tall trees, where the revelry of beachside
bars is replaced by the sound of the jungle. The ten
en-suite rooms here can be fan or a/c and are of a good
standard and well priced. Double B800
Naga Bungalows Ao Hin Kok T 038 644035. Long-
running, somewhat jaded resort, with a beachfront bar, a
Thai boxing ring, a bakery, currency exchange and internet
access. Simple, scrappy bamboo and wood huts are stacked
in tiers up the slope, with decks, mosquito nets and shared
bathrooms, as well as pricier concrete a/c ro oms w ith their
own adjacent cold-water bathroom. Double B500
Sea Breeze Ao Phai T 038 644124. Just at the turning by
Silver Sand resort and a short walk from the beach, this large,
gaudily-painted enterprise has a wide variety of bungalows
and rooms of different sizes, so ask to view first. Th e chea pest
are no-frills fan rooms with cold showers. Double B500
Silver Sand Middle of Ao Phai T 038 644300-1. This
party hub has a spread of well-turned-out rooms, including
whitewashed, a/c chalets ranged around a pretty garden;
they all come with safety boxes, verand as and good
modern hot-water bathrooms. Double B800

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
The mainland departure point for Ko Samet is the fishing
port of Ban Phe, about 200km from Bangkok. Boats leave
from half a dozen piers, including the central Nuan Thip
pier (Nov-Feb approximately hourly 8am-6pm; 40min;
B70) and back again to roughly the same schedule. Most
go to Na Dan pier, but if you're headed for Ao Nuan or Ao
Sang Thian, it might be more convenient to take the boat
to Ao Wong Duan (around 3 daily, depending on demand;
1hr; B90). In low season, there should be up to four boats
daily to Na Dan.
To Ban Phe Buses from Bangkok's Eastern Bus Terminal
run roughly hourly to Ban Phe (3hr), or you can take a
bus to Rayong instead (roughly every 30min) and then
change onto a songthaew to Ban Phe (30min). Coming
by bus from Chanthaburi or Trat, you'll be dropped at a
T-junction on Highway 3, from where a songthaew or
motorbike taxi will take you the remaining 5km to the
Ban Phe piers. Tourist minibuses are usually a quicker
but more expensive option than the bus. They run direct
from Bangkok's Th Khao San (B300), Victory Monument
(B160) and Suvarnabhumi Airport (B500) to Ban Phe, as
well as from Ko Chang (B600).

ACCOMMODATION
The trend across the island is upmarket, and in high season
you'll be hard pressed to secure an en-suite bungalow for
less than B800. The cheapest budget accommodation is
located on the high street in Na Dan village - numerous
restaurants, shops and internet cafés double up as
guesthouses though they have only a few rooms each for
B500 or less; the beach is a short walk.

AO TUB TIM AND AO NUAN
Ao Nuan Bungalows T 038 644334. Birdsong provides
the soundtrack for a variety of idiosyncratic but sturdy
wooden huts that dot the forested hillside. The cheaper
choices have a mattress on the floor, a mosquito net and a