Thailand - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 763

14km short of the Khao Yai visitor centre. At the checkpoint
(where you pay the B400 national park entrance fee) park
rangers will flag down passing cars and get them to give
you a ride up to the visitor centre; this is common practice
here. A quicker but more expensive option is to charter a
songthaew from the corner of Soi 19 in Pak Chong (B1500
for a return trip, including several hours in the park).

PAK CHONG
Pak Chong's exceptionally good night market sets up on the
edge of the main road, between Tesaban sois 17 and 19.
Pak Chong Hotel 650/1 Th Mittraphap, near the main
bus stop T 044 279082. This plain white block just off
the main road has friendly staff and clean, en-suite,
good-v alue ro oms with hot showers. Breakfast included.
Double B460

10

GUIDED TOURS
The good thing about joining a tour of Khao Yai is that
you're accompanied by an expert wildlife-spotter, and
you have transport between the major sights of the park;
book ahead if possible. Beware, however, that Khao Yai has
problems with unscrupulous, fly-by-night tour operators.
Our recommended companies run the standard tours
lasting for a day and a half, with the middle night spent
outside the park; national park fees are included in the
prices, but accommodation is extra.
Green Leaf Tour At kilometre stone 7.5 on the park road,
12.5km out of Pak Chong T 044 365073, W greenleaftour
.com. The staff here go out of their way to make sure your
stay runs smoothly, and will pick you up from Pak Chong.
As well as specialist birding trips, they offer tours ranging
from half a day (B500/person) to one and a half days
(B1500/person). Sparse though brightly decorated
en-suite rooms (B300) and decent Thai meals.
Wildlife Safari 2km north of Pak Chong T 089 628
8224, E [e-mail]. This friendly family-run
business offers jungle trekking and birdwatching, as well
as smart en-suite rooms with hot showers in the garden of
the family home (B400 including breakfast). Bespoke tours
as well as the standard one-and-a-half-day tour, which is
priced according to the size of the group (from B1500/
person). Call for free transfer from Pak Chong.

KHORAT NAKHON RATCHASIMA
Ninety kilometres from Pak Chong,
bustling and non-touristy KHORAT
(o cially known as Nakhon Ratchasima)
is Isaan's largest city and a major
transport hub, where you may have to
change buses. It can be used as a base for
exploring Phimai and Phanom Rung,
though you'll be better off for budget
accommodation in Phimai itself and in
Surin (for Phanom Rung).
he town's most important statue is of
Thao Suranari (Ya Mo), the deputy
governor's feisty wife whose bravery and
cunning were an inspiration to the people
of Khorat when it was attacked by Laos
in 1826. People come in their droves in
the evening to lay flowers at her feet, and
some even dance around her. From
March 23 to April 3, the town holds a
festival in her honour.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION
By bus Most buses from other provinces arrive at the
main Bus Terminal 2, north of the city on Highway 2 and
connected to it by tuk-tuks and metered taxis (around
B60). Bus Terminal 1, just off Th Suranari, is closer to the
town centre and runs local services as well as a few buses
to Bangkok.
Destinations

NIGHT SAFARIS
A much-touted park attraction is the hour-long night
safaris that take truckloads of tourists round Khao Yai's
main roads in the hope of sighting wildlife in the glare of
specially fitted searchlights. You can book a place on one of
the trucks at the national park headquarters; they leave
from here every night at 7pm and 8pm and cost B500 for
up to ten people.

Bangkok (every 20min; 3hr); Ban Tako (for
Phanom Rung; every 30min; 2hr); Chanthaburi (7 daily;
6hr); Chiang Mai (12 daily; 12hr); Chiang Rai (6 daily;
13hr); Khon Kaen (at least hourly; 2hr 30min-3hr);
Lopburi (hourly; 3hr 30min); Nakhon Phanom (3 daily;
8hr); Nong Khai (11 daily; 6-8hr); Phimai (every 30min;
1hr-1hr 30min); Phitsanulok (14 daily; 6-7hr); Rayong
(for Ko Samet; at least 8 daily; 6-8hr); Surin (every 30min;
4-5hr); Ubon Ratchathani (hourly; 5-7hr).
By train The train station on Th Mukkhamontri, towards
the west of town, is served by city bus routes #2 and #3.
Destinations Ayutthaya (12 daily; 3hr 30min); Bangkok
(12 daily; 4hr-6hr 40min); Khon Kaen (5 daily; 3hr 20min);
Surin (13 daily; 2hr-3hr 20min); Ubon Ratchathani (10 daily;
4hr-6hr 10min); Udon Thani (4 daily; 5hr-5hr 40min).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
INSIDE THE PARK
To stay at the national park lodges in high season, you'll
probably need to reserve ahead through the Royal Forestry
Department o ce in Bangkok ( T 02 562 0760, W dnp
.go.th), though there may be availability for walk-ins on
weekdays. Advance booking is not usually necessary if
camping, but is advisable at weekends. Tents and bedding
can be rented for around B250 for two people. There's a
cafeteria complex opposite the HQ and visitor centre.