Thailand - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 747

THE HILL TRIBES
There are at least ten different hill tribes in northern Thailand, many of them divided into
distinct subgroups. Migrating from various parts of China and Southeast Asia, most arrived in
Thailand in the twentieth century and many have tribal relatives in other parts of Southeast
Asia. The tribes have sophisticated systems of customs, laws and beliefs, and are predominantly
animists. They often have exquisitely crafted costumes, though many men and children now
adopt Western clothes for everyday wear. To learn more about the tribes, visit the hill tribe
museum in Chiang Rai (see p.762).
KAREN
The largest hill-tribe group (pop.500,000), the Karen began to arrive in the seventeenth
century, though many are recent refugees from Myanmar. Most of them live west of Chiang
Mai, stretching all the way down to Kanchanaburi. Unmarried Karen women wear loose
V-necked shift dresses, often decorated with grass seeds at the seams. Married women wear
blouses and skirts in bold red or blue. Perhaps the most famous of all hill-tribe groups are the
Padaung , a small subgroup of the Karen. Padaung women wear columns of heavy brass rings
around their necks (see p.756).
HMONG
The Hmong (or Meo; pop.110,000) are found widely in northern Thailand, and are also the
most widespread minority group in south China. The Blue Hmong subgroup live to the west of
Chiang Mai, while the White Hmong are found to the east. Most Hmong live in extended
families in traditional houses with a roof descending almost to ground level. Blue Hmong
women wear intricately embroidered pleated skirts decorated with bands of red, pink, blue
and white. White Hmong women wear white skirts for special occasions and black baggy
trousers for everyday use. All the Hmong are famous for their chunky silver jewellery.
LAHU
The Lahu (pop.80,000) originated in the Tibetan highlands. The Lahu language has become
the lingua franca of the hill tribes, since the Lahu often hire out their labour. About one-third of
Lahu have been converted to Christianity. The remaining animist Lahu believe in a village
guardian spirit, who is often worshipped at a central temple. Houses are built on high stilts and

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W fivethousandyears.org. A variety of meditation courses
for beginners and experienced students, from 4 to 21
days. Registration must be made in advance (courses are
often full).
Wat Ram Poeng Northern Insight Meditation Centre,
off Th Chon Prathan near Wat Umong T 053 278620,
W palikanon.com/vipassana/tapotaram/tapotaram.htm.
Disciplined courses (with a rule of no food after noon and
respectful silence), taught by Thai monks with translators.
The basic course is 26 days but the meditation practice can
be “tried out” for ten days with special permission.
Wat Suan Dork (see p.748) W monkchat.net. Intro-
ductory retreat course to meditation and Thai Buddhist
culture, including chanting and alms-giving. Courses begin
at 1pm Tues, before departure to the training centre on Doi
Suthep, returning on Wed afternoon (B500). Participants
need to wear white clothes, available for B300.

MASSAGE
Massages in Thailand are considered a healthy part of daily
life rather than a luxurious pampering treat so they're
readily available all over Chiang Mai, with prices starting
around B150/hr.
Old Medicine Hospital 78/1 Soi Mo Shivagakomarpaj,
off Th Wualai T 053 201633, W thaimassageschool.ac.th.
Highly respected week-long courses (B5000) with dorm
accommodation available; foot, oil and herbal compress
courses are also available. Also the best place in Chiang
Mai to get a massage (B250/90min).
Thai Massage School of Chiang Mai 203/6 Th Mae
Jo T 053 854330, W tmcschool.com. Five-day courses
(B7500) fully accredited by the Ministry of Education, as
well as longer professional courses.

MEDITATION
Most meditation courses are serious undertakings: conditions
are sparse, the routine is strict and there's often no reading
or music, and speaking must be kept to a minimum.
Wat Phra That Doi Suthep (see p.748) International
Buddhist

ACCOMMODATION
The main concentrations of guesthouses are in the
surprisingly quiet sois around the eastern side of the
moat, close to all the sights and amid a proliferation of Meditation Centre T 053 295012,