Thailand - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 740

Krua Canadian 3 Th Sriponit, off Th Indharakiri
diagonally across from the police station. Huge menu
of tasty dishes (mostly around B100), including Thai,
Mexican, vegetarian, Western breakfasts and deli
sandwiches. Also a good source of local information. Daily
7am-9.30pm.

small and quiet; it takes no more than
twenty minutes to walk from one end to
the other. It has few signposted roads, but
the two main points of orientation are
the River Umphang at the far western
end of the village, and the wat - about
500m east of the river bridge - that
marks its centre.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By songthaew Songthaews drop people at the bus
station, just east of the village centre; most places are
within walking distance, though there are also motorbike
taxis. In terms of public transport, Umphang is effectively
a dead end, so you'll need to return to Mae Sot (at least
hourly until noon; 4-5hr) before continuing on to other
destinations.

DIRECTORY
Banks There are banks dotted all about Mae Sot,
especially on Th Indharakiri and Th Prasat Vithi.
Internet Internet is available at many places around
Mae Sot, especially on Th Indharakiri.
Motorbike rental Available at most guesthouses
(around B200/day).
Post o ce To the east of the police station on
Th Indharakiri.

10

UMPHANG
Even if you don't fancy joining a trek, it's
worth considering making the spectacular
164km trip south from Mae Sot to the
village of UMPHANG , both for the fine
mountain scenery and for the buzz
of being in such an isolated part of
hailand. Chances are your songthaew
will be crammed full of people from
varied ethnic and tribal backgrounds.
About halfway, the road goes past
Umpiem Mai, a refugee camp for fifteen
thousand or so Burmese.
Surrounded by mountains and sited at
the confluence of the Mae Khlong and
Umphang rivers, Umphang itself is

ACCOMMODATION
Most trekking companies (see box below) have their own
accommodation. As Umphang accommodation is geared
towards trekkers in transit, charges are per person rather
than per room.
Phu Doi Campsite Resort North side of the bus station
T 055 561049, W phudoi.com. Dark wood-panelled fan
rooms with spotless hot-water bathrooms and verandas,
in log buildings overlooking a lotus pond. Also has a
popular restaurant with an English-language menu. B300
per person
Suan Boonyaporn Garden Huts 106 Th Umphang-
Palata, by the river bridge T 055 561093, W boonyaporn
resort.com. Simple wooden huts and bungalows, the
cheapest with shared hot sho wers, set around a pretty
garden with partial river views. B200 per person

TREKKING AROUND UMPHANG
The focus of most treks from Umphang is the three-tiered Tee Lor Su Waterfall . It's at its
most thunderous just after the rainy season in November, when you can also swim in the
beautifully blue lower pool, though trails can still be muddy at this time. During the dry season
(Dec-April), you can get close to the falls by road and it's usually possible to climb up to one of
the upper tiers. A typical trek lasts three days and features rafting, hot springs, three or four
hours' walking per day, a night in a Karen village and an elephant ride. Bring a fleece as nights
can get chilly. Most itineraries now include transport from and to Mae Sot (and sometimes
accommodation in Umphang), with prices starting at around B5200 for a three-day trek. From
June to October, trips focus on whitewater rafting.
TREKKING OPERATORS
Max One Tour In the DK Hotel plaza, 296/2
Th Indharakiri, Mae Sot T 055 542942, W maxonetour
.com. Outlet for Umphang Hill (see below).
Mr Boonchuay 360 Th Pravitpaiwan, northwest of
Umphang bus station T 055 561020, W boonchuaytour
.com. Umphang-born and bred, Mr Boonchuay knows

the area well and has a good reputation; his English is not
perfect, but he has English-speaking guides.
Umphang Hill Resort By the bridge in Umphang
T 055 561063, W umphanghill.com. The biggest
outfit in the area is e ciently run and offers eleven
different itineraries.