Thailand - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget

Travel Reference

In-Depth Information

southbound buses pick up outside the Asia Hotel , and

northbound ones from across the road. Useful routes

include: #1, from the old bus station to the train station

and Wat Mahathat; #8, from the old bus station to the

Folklore Museum, train station, Topland Plaza and Wat

Mahathat; and #11, via the train station, Topland Plaza

and Wat Mahathat.

Internet There are internet cafés across town, including

one just west of Bon Bon Guest House .

Tourist police In the far northern suburbs near the

stadium ( T 1155).

SUKHOTHAI

For a brief but brilliant hundred and

forty years (1238-1376), the walled city

of SUKHOTHAI presided as the capital of

hailand. Now an impressive assembly of

elegant ruins, Muang Kao Sukhothai

(Old Sukhothai), 58km northwest of

Phitsanulok, has been designated a

historical park. It's one of hailand's most

visited sites and is the most famous place

to celebrate the Loy Krathong Festival

in October/November. Most travellers

stay in lively “New” Sukhothai, 12km

to the east, which has good travel links

and a broader range of accommodation

and restaurants.

10

ACCOMMODATION

Amarin Nakorn 3/1 Th Chao Phraya T 055 219069.

Very central, good value but dated, this hotel has compact

a/c rooms, all with hot showers; t he up per floors enjoy

panoramic views of the city. Double B430

Bon Bon 77 Th Phayalithai T 055 219058 or T 081 707

7649. The only genuine guesthouse in town, set back from

the road around a small yard. The rooms are kept nice and

clean and have en- suite h ot showers and TVs; pay B100

extra for a/c. Double B350

Lithai Guesthouse 73/1-5 Th Phayalithai T 055 219629,

E lithaiphs@yahoo.com. Good but bland option, used

mainly by salespeople so not especially cosy and much more

of a hotel than a guesthouse. The clean, bright r ooms come

with hot shower, TV and either fan or a/c. Double B350

London 21-22 Soi Bhudhabucha 1 T 055 225145. Very

cheap and very basic, with shabby rooms (shar ed col d-water

bathroom) in a converted family home. Double B100

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Cycling around Old Sukhothai is a

great way to spend a day; its collapsed

ruins are evocative of a glorious time

gone by. Some of its temples are

exquisitely restored, while others have

been left to crumble. In its prime,

Old Sukhothai boasted some forty

separate temple complexes and covered

an area of about seventy square

kilometres. At its heart stood the walled

royal city, protected by a series of moats

and ramparts. Sukhothai Historical Park

covers all this area and is divided into

five zones, with all the most important

temples in the central zone. here's free

access to the east and south zones, but the

central (daily 6.30am-7pm, until 9pm

on Sat, when it's floodlit), north (daily

7.30am-5.30pm) and west zones (daily

8am-4pm) each charge B100/person,

plus B10-50/vehicle.

EATING AND DRINKING

Along the east bank of the river, south of Akkathasaroth

Bridge, there's a good night market, where the most

famous dish is “flying vegetables” - morning glory is stir-

fried before being tossed flamboyantly in the air to the

plate-wielding waiter.

Karaket Th Phayalithai. Tasty Thai curry shop, popular

in the early evening, where you make your selection from

the trays on the pavement table (around B40/serving),

then eat in a/c comfort inside. Daily 3.30-8pm.

Kway Tiaw Hoy Kha Rim Nan 100m north of Wat

Mahathat. The Sukhothai noodles here - rice noodles with

red pork in a sweet and spicy broth (B35) - are so famously

tasty they've been on all the local TV channels. You sit on the

raised floor with legs dangling ( hoy kha ) under the table

(with some river views). There's no English sign, but it's got a

brown awning and is always packed. Daily 9am-4pm.

Sor Lert Rot Th Boromtrailoknat, immediately south of

the Pailyn Hotel . It doesn't look much, but this basic, rather

untidy, Thai-Chinese restaurant cooks up some of the best

food in town. Try the fried chicken (B100) and the salted

fish with Chinese kale ( khana pla khem ; B50). Mon-Sat

8am-10pm.

The central zone

Just outside the entrance to the

central zone is the well-presented

Ramkhamhaeng National Museum

(daily 9am-4pm; B150), named after

Sukhothai's most important king. As well

as several illuminating exhibitions and

some of the finest sculptures and reliefs