Thailand - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 729

(B200/day) and canoes (B150/half-day) can be rented.
Also offers good-value packages with trekki ng, bo at rides,
bamboo rafting and elephant rides. Double B250

BAAN UNRAK
Baan Unrak (“House of Joy”;
W baanunrak.org) is a local charity that
supports destitute women and children in
the community, many of whom are
Burmese refugees. The charity runs a
children's home, primary school, organic
farm and a project that encompasses a
weaving and sewing centre to help
women learn skills that enable them to
earn money. If you want to make a
worthwhile contribution while on your
travels, note that Baan Unrak offers a
number of volunteering opportunities,
including teaching English.

DIRECTORY
Bank The bank behind the market has an ATM and
exchange facilities.
Internet Wi-fi and computers at Baan Unrak's Bakery.
Post o ce Just south of the bus station.

10

AYUTTHAYA
he city of AYUTTHAYA , 80km north
of Bangkok, was founded in 1351 by
King U-hong and rapidly became the
pre-eminent city-state in hailand. By
1685 it had a population of one million
people - roughly double the population
of London at the same time - living
largely on houseboats in a 140km
network of waterways. In 1767, the city
was sacked by the Burmese and today
its ruins are a designated UNESCO
World Heritage Site. Over a week in
mid-December, this status is celebrated
with nightly son-et-lumière shows.

Dramatic Wat Wang Wiwekaram stands
2km from the bridge at the edge of Ban
Waeng Ka; its massive, golden chedi is
modelled on the centrepiece of India's
Bodh Gaya, the sacred site of the
Buddha's enlightenment.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus Frequent a/c minibuses from Kanchanaburi
terminate about 100m east of the market, about 2km or
more from the accommodation listed here; less frequent,
larger buses stop directly in front of the market. Motorbike
taxis will take you to the guesthouses for B20-30.
Destinations Bangkok (Northern Bus Terminal; 4 daily;
7hr); Kanchanaburi (14 daily; 3-4hr).

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
he heart of this ancient city was a
4km-wide river island, and the majority
of the ancient remains are spread
among the grassy spaces of its western
half; the hub of the modern town
occupies its northeast corner. he only
way to do justice to the ruins is to rent a
bicycle (B40-60/day) or motorbike
(B250/day), available from guesthouses.
Otherwise, there are plenty of tuk-tuks
around (about B50 for short journeys on
the island).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
The food stalls at the market are great for cheap eats, but
otherwise the restaurant at P guesthouse, with fine lake
views from its large terrace, is your best bet for a full Thai
(or Burmese) meal.
Graph Café Opposite P guesthouse. A neatly manicured
lawn leads the way to this chilled modern café serving a
wide range of teas, chais and speciality coffees (from B40),
as well as smoothies, cocktails and pizza. Free wi-fi. Daily
8am-9pm.
J Family 17/1 Soi 2 T 034 595511. A genuine homestay
offering five big rooms with fan and shared cold-water
bathroom in the large family home of the Mon woman,
Kumsai Soonploy, who runs the Baan Un rak sh op. She
speaks good English and is very welcoming. B150 /person
P T 034 595061, W p-guesthouse.com. Spacious rooms, a
garden leading down to the lake and stunning views
across the water make this a worthwhile choice. The fan
rooms have great shared bathrooms (cold showers); the
a/c rooms are en-suite (hot showers; B950), but unless it's
really hot, they're not worth splashing out on. Motorbikes

Wat Phra Mahathat and
Wat Ratburana
Built in the fourteenth century to
enshrine relics of the Buddha himself,
the overgrown Wat Phra Mahathat (daily
8am-6pm; B50) is the epitome of
Ayutthaya's atmospheric decay, and the
home of an oft-photographed Buddha
head serenely trapped in gnarled tree
roots. Across the road is towering,
fifteenth-century Wat Ratburana (daily
8am-6pm; B50), which retains some
original stuccowork, including fine