Thailand - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 728

floating raft rooms, though boat noise can be a problem
during the day.
Bluestar 241 Th Maenam Kwai T 034 512161,
W bluestar-guesthouse.com. Popular and clued-up, with a
wide range of good-value accommodation, including very
cheap, basic, en-suite fan rooms, in a q uiet garden that
runs down to the riverside. Double B150
My Home 18/1 Th Maenam Kwai, signposted down an
unnamed soi just north of the Water Authority building
T 034 625555, W myhomekan.com. Central, modern,
good-value guesthouse where the spacious, tile -floore d
rooms have TV, hot showers and free wi-fi. Double B350
Nita Raft House Th Pak Praek T 034 514521, E nita
[e-mail]. Away from the Th Maenam Kwai
fray, a friendly, laidback, old-school guesthouse, whose
simple, woven-bamboo floating rooms (some en-suite)
are am ong th e cheapest in town. Also does great food.
Double B200
Tamarind 29/1 Th Maenam Kwai T 034 518790,
E [e-mail]. At this very clean,
friendly place, sleep either in the two-storey house or in
one of the spacious rafthouse rooms (all en- suite), which
share a breezy, orchid-strewn terrace. Double B350
VN 44 Soi Rongheabaow T 034 514082, W vnguesthouse
.net. A quiet, pretty place just south of the Maenam Kwai
hub, with good food and decent raft-house rooms: they're
large, en-su ite an d come with terraces and either fan or
a/c. Double B275

Schluck Th Maenam Kwai. Cosy a/c restaurant serving
salads, pizzas and steaks (from B150) as well as Thai food,
but what really makes it stand out are its mouthwatering,
home-made cakes such as vanilla choux buns and lemon
meringue tart. Tues-Sun 4-10pm.

DIRECTORY
Banks and exchange There are several banks with ATMs
and money-changing facilities on Th Saeng Chuto and
Th Maenam Kwai.
Hospitals The private Thanakan Hospital is at 20/20
Th Saeng Chuto ( T 034 622366).
Internet If you're looking for an internet café, your best
bet is Th Maenam Kwai.
Tourist police Main o ce on Th Saeng Chuto ( T 1155 or
T 034 512668), with a handy booth by the bridge.

10

SANGKHLABURI
Located right at the northernmost tip of
the 73km-long Vajiralongkorn Reservoir,
the tiny hilltop town of SANGKHLABURI ,
220km north of Kanchanaburi, is a
charming if uneventful hangout. It lies
close to the border with Myanmar,
though at the time of writing the
crossing at the hree Pagodas Pass was
closed to foreign tourists (this may
change to allow day-trips to the Burmese
town of Payathonzu).

EATING AND DRINKING
At dusk, the ever-reliable night market sets up alongside
Th Saeng Chuto on the edge of the bus station; its range of
choices will satisfy even the pickiest eater. Drinking haunts
are not hard to come by either, with plenty of bars along
Th Maenam Kwai, many of which show sport and serve
basic Western food.
Bell's Pizzeria 24/5 Th Maenam Kwai. Swiss-run place
with pavement tables that's justly popular for its great
pizzas (from B160). Also offers pasta and a handful of Thai
dishes ( tom yam soup B80). Daily 5-11pm or later.
Blue Rice Apple's Retreat , on the west bank of the Kwai
Yai, across Sudjai Bridge T 034 512017. In a lovely
riverside guesthouse restaurant, delicious mid-priced Thai
food, including veggie options and mouthwatering curries
- massaman is the signature dish (B95). Cookery classes
available (B1550 for a one-day course). Daily 7.30-10am,
11.30am-2pm & 6-9pm.
★

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
You can boat across the reservoir in
search of the submerged temple
Wat Sam Phrasop in canoes rented
from P guesthouse (see p.732); during
the dry season it's possible to swim
through the temple's windows.
Alternatively, join a sunset longtail boat
trip (B350-500/boat).
Across the reservoir stands the Mon
village of Ban Waeng Ka, which grew up
in the late 1940s after the outbreak of
civil war in Myanmar forced the
country's ethnic minorities to flee across
the border. To reach it, people normally
walk across the lake via what's said to be
the longest handmade wooden bridge in
the world, at nearly 400m, which is
reputedly visible from space. However, a
2013 flood washed away 70m of its
length, though it's likely to be repaired
fairly quickly and, in the meantime, a
bamboo bridge has been built alongside.

Mangosteen Café and Books 13 Th Maenam Kwai
W mangosteencafe.net. Hard to spot among the bustle of
the main drag, yet still peaceful, this bright, cheery café
has a brilliant Thai and Western menu (most dishes B60-
100) and serves great smoothies and coffee. There is also
an array of reading material to peruse or buy. Daily
8am-9pm; closed first and third Mon of every month.