Thailand - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 719

Sri Ayutthaya Soi 14, 23/11 Th Sri Ayutthaya T 02 282
5942, E [e-mail]; map pp.712-713. The
most attractive guesthouse in Thewes, with elegant,
wood-panelled rooms, some of them en-suite with a/c.
There's a great restaurant do wnsta irs which serves
delicious vegetarian food. Double B500
★

Lub D 4 Th Decho T 02 634 7999 & 925/9 Th Rama I T 02
612 4999, W lubd.com; map pp.712-713. Great hostel with a
chilled-out vibe, big, funky, a/c dorms and bedrooms with
swish, hot-water bathrooms. The communal areas h ave a n
open l ayout a nd a friendly feel. Free wi-fi. Dorm B450 ,
double B1100
★

Tavee 83 Soi 14, Th Sri Ayutthaya T 02 280 1447,
E [e-mail]; map pp.712-713. Down a
pedestrian alley behind Sri Ayutthaya Guesthouse and
owned by the same family, but quieter and friendlier.
Fan rooms sport attractive wood floors and share hot-
water bathro oms, while the a/c options are en-suite.
Double B450

New Road Guest House 1216/1 Th Charoen Krung,
between sois 34 and 36 T 02 630 9371, W visitbeyond.com
/thailand; map pp.712-713. Thai headquarters of a Danish
backpacker tour operator, with a helpful travel agent and
interesting Thailand tours. On offer are comfortable a/c
dorms, fan doubles with hot-water bathrooms and attrac-
tive a/c rooms, set ar ound a quiet courtyard off New Rd.
Free wi-fi. Dorm B250 , double B550
Suk 11 1/33 Soi 11, Th Sukhumvit T 02 253 5927, W suk11
.com; map pp.712-713. The most backpacker-oriented
guesthouse on Sukhumvit Rd, whose interior resembles a
village of traditional wooden houses, with a wide variety
of guest rooms, terraces and lounging areas. The rooms
themselves are simple but comfortable, all with a/c and some
are en-suite; all showers are hot. Good rates for singles. B749
White Lodge 36/8 Soi Kasemsan 1, Th Rama I T 02 216
8867; map pp.712-713. The cheapest guesthouse among
several on this soi, with plain white a/c cubicles with hot
showers and a lively, welcoming atmosphere - the b est
rooms, bright and quiet, are on the upper floors. B600

10

DOWNTOWN
The following are away from the main sights of Ratanakosin,
but handy for nightlife and shopping.
Baan Hualampong 336/20 Soi Chalongkrung, off
Th Rama IV T 02 639 8054, W baanhualampong.com;
map pp.712-713. Convenient for Hualamphong Station,
stylish, wooden twin rooms that are spacious and have a
traditional feel. Staff are friendly, and dorms and good-
value single s are also availa ble; most rooms share facilities.
Dorm B250 , double B520
ETZ Hostel 5/3 Soi Ngam Duphli, off Th Rama IV T 02 286
9424, W etzhostel.com; map pp.712-713. Above a branch of
the recommended ETC travel agent, and handy for Lumphini
subway. Helpful, modern and clean, with a roof terrace and a
lounge with free computer s. A/c dorms s hare h ot showers;
free wi-fi throughout. Dorm B200 , double B900

EATING
Bangkok boasts an astonishing fifty thousand places to
eat, ranging from chicken on a stick to world-class haute
cuisine. There are food stalls on almost every corner (expect
to pay B30-50), so you could easily spend a week here
without setting foot inside a restaurant.

TREAT YOURSELF
A great way to see Bangkok's beautifully
illuminated riverside temples at night is
on a dinner cruise. Chomping on Thai
green curry while gliding past the Grand
Palace is an experience you'll never forget.
Cruises usually last two hours. Always
book in advance; some cruises may not
run during the rainy season.
Loy Nava T 02 437 4932, W loynava.com.
The original, forty-year-old converted
rice-barge service still departs Si Phraya
pier twice nightly, at 6pm and 8.10pm,
with pick-ups at Tha Sathorn possible. Live
traditional music and dancing. B1400,
including hotel pick-up in central Bangkok.
Manohra Beautiful converted rice-barge
operated by the Anantara Riverside Resort ,
south of Taksin Bridge in Thonburi
( T 02 476 0022 ext 1416, W manohra
cruises.com). Departs hotel at 7.30pm,
with pick-ups at Tha Sathorn possible.
From B1750.

★

BANGLAMPHU AND RATANAKOSIN
Aquatini Navalai River Resort, 45/1 Th Phra Arthit T 02 280
9955; map p.715. Occupying a nice wooden deck in a breezy
riverfront spot, this hotel restaurant does exceptionally good
Thai food at quite reasonable prices. Seafood's the speciality,
with most mains B200-300. Daily 6.30am-11pm.
Hemlock 56 Th Phra Athit T 02 282 7507; map p.715.
Small, stylish restaurant that offers a long, mid-priced
menu, including delicious green curry (B100). Good veggie
selection. Mon-Sat 4-11pm; worth reserving on Fri and
Sat nights.
Jok Phochana Soi 2, Th Samsen; map p.715. This bare-
basics, forty-year-old restaurant, which has featured on
national TV, is about as real as you're going to get near
Th Khao San (green curry B70). The day's ingredients are
colourfully displayed at the front of the shop, and the quiet
pavement tables get more crowded as the night wears on.
Daily 5pm-2am.
Krua Apsorn Th Dinso T 02 685 4531; map p.715. Very
good, spicy and authentic food and a genteel welcome.