The Philippines - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget

Travel Reference

In-Depth Information

ATI ATIHAN FESTIVAL

Every January (exact dates change slightly each year), the Filipino town of Kalibo on the island

of Panay erupts into Southeast Asia's biggest street party, Ati-Atihan . This exuberant festival

celebrates the original inhabitants of the area, the Atis, and culminates with choreographed

dances through the streets by locals daubed in black paint (Ati-Atihan means “to make like the

Atis”). Thousands dress up in outrageous outfits, blacken their faces with soot (in honour of the

aboriginal Ati, whose descendants still live on Panay), and salsa through the streets amid cries

of “ hala bira, puera pasma ” (“keep on going, no tiring”). It is said that the festival originated

when ten Malay chieftains chanced upon the island and persuaded the Ati to sell it to them;

the deal was naturally sealed with a party, where the Malays darkened their faces to emulate

their new neighbours. Centuries later, the Spanish incorporated Catholic elements into

Ati-Atihan and the modern festival is now dedicated to the Santo Niño (Holy Infant Jesus). The

event comes to a climax with a huge Mass in the cathedral, and the three-day party ends with

a masquerade ball and prizes for the best dressed.

Good accommodation can be hard to find during the Ati-Atihan and prices increase by up

to a hundred percent. Direct flights to Kalibo from Manila are often fully booked.

INFORMATION

Tourist information Kalibo Tourism O ce, Kalibo

Tourism Centre, Magsaysay Park (Mon-Fri 8am-5pm;

T 036 262 1020).

Internet Plenty of internet cafés along Roxas Ave,

including Ed's Video Place at the junction with Pastrana.

There's wi-fi access at both branches of Latte Coffee Café

(daily 9am-7pm).

Post o ce In the Provincial Capitol Building, on

Fernandez St.

8

ACCOMMODATION

Garcia Legaspi Mansion 159 Roxas Ave T 036 262

5588. The clean fan rooms, all with shared bathrooms, and

friendl y staff , make this the most popular budget place in

Kalibo. P700

RB Lodge N Roldan St T 036 268 5200. The new branch

of this hotel offers clean and simple but stylish rooms with

wi-fi and cable TV in the heart of town. The old wing on

Pastrana is n early a s nice and also has an internet café and

coffee shop. P1150

BORACAY

It may be only 7km long and 1km wide

at its narrowest point, but BORACAY ,

350km south of Manila off the

northeastern tip of Panay, is a big tropical

island in a small package. White Beach

grows more commercial and upmarket

every year, and caters more and more to

Asian package tourists to the point where

it's now almost unrecognizable from its

backpacker origins, but the beauty of

Boracay is that there really is room for

everybody. Budget travellers might have

to hunt a bit harder for accommodation

but there are plenty of compensations,

chief among them some of the country's

most chilled-out nightlife and its most

genuinely breathtaking stretch of beach.

he scene around White Beach is what it

is, and while some complain about the

vendors and the fact that there's hardly a

patch of sand not appropriated by the

resorts, it's also great fun - and the only

place of its kind in the Philippines.

Besides, with thirty other beaches and

coves to discover around the island and

offshore, it's never too di cult to escape

the crowds.

EATING AND DRINKING

Kalibo's culinary scene is gradually expanding beyond

Andok's , Chowking and Jollibee to include a few decent

coffee shops.

Latte Café Coffee Archbishop Reyes cnr. Santa Monica

streets. There are two branches of this pleasant coffee shop

in Kalibo, both of which sell sandwiches and light meals

(P140-350), alongside Havaiana flip-flops. Great coffee

and free wi-fi make this place a favourite with students.

Daily 9am-7pm.

Kitty's Kitchen Rizal Street, near the police station.

Friendly Kitty rustles up some pretty tasty meals; the

speciality is barbecue ribs with salad and rice (P110). The

vast menu is a mix of sandwiches, pasta, curries and noodles.

Daily 9am-9pm.