The Philippines - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 645

ACCOMMODATION
DUMAGUETE
★

Coco Amigos Rizal Blvd. Popular Mexican along the
seafront, with favourites such as chilli con carne (P160),
and mouthwatering enchiladas (P200), as well as inter-
national dishes. It can attract a seedy crowd in the
evenings. Daily 7am-midnight.
Sans Rival Rizal Blvd. The original little cake shop on San
Jose Street still turns out delicious cakes and coffee, while
its larger sister round the corner on Rizal serves tasty but
inexpensive meals (P120-250), including lasagne, salads,
burgers and sandwiches. Daily 9am-9pm.
Santa Teresa Restaurant Hibbard Avenue. Clean and
great value - just point at whatever tickles your fancy (fish
and meat mains around P100) and take it through to the
pleasant seating area. Daily 7am-10pm.

Harold's Mansion 205 Hibbard Ave T 035 225
8000, W haroldsmansion.com. Dumaguete's only true
hostel has immaculate male and female dorms, plus
simple rooms with common or private (P600) bathroom,
plus a roof-deck coffee shop perfect for meeting other
travellers. Harold's also has its own dive shop and there's
an invaluable information centre from where you can
organize excursions. If you want to enjoy some fresh air
without venturing too far from the city, ask abou t thei r
very si mple e co-lodge up in Valencia (P500). Dorm P250 ,
double P500
Hotel Palwa Locsin St T 035 422 8995, W hotelpalwa
.com. Excellent budget option with small but nicely
styled a/c rooms with flat-scree n TV. There's a pleasant
café with free wi-fi in the lobby. P969

SIQUIJOR
Siquijor , a laidback little island where life
is simple and backpackers are made very
welcome, lies slightly apart from the rest
of the Visayas off the southern tip of
Cebu and about 22km east of Negros.
he Spanish sailors nicknamed Siquijor
the Isla del Fuego (“Island of Fire”)
because of eerie luminescence generated
by swarms of fireflies at night. Even today,
the island is suffused with a lingering
sense of mystery, with many Filipinos
refusing to visit, believing Siquijor to be a
centre of witchcraft and black magic, a
superstition reinforced by the staging of
the Folk Healing Festival in the mountain
village of San Antonio every Easter on
Black Saturday. You can circumnavigate
Siquijor by tricycle and jeepney along the
coastal road, and most resorts can also
arrange motorbike rental or guided tours
to the lush, jungled interior.
SIQUIJOR TOWN is the capital and
main port, where you'll find a couple
of internet spots, including 3JK on the
main street (daily 24hr; P15/hr). Nearby
is a tricycle terminal that the locals use,
a better bet than using the touts around
the pier. he town lies twenty minutes by
tricycle (P20) southwest of Larena, where
the island's only (temperamental) ATM is
located, along with a Western Union and
another smattering of internet cafés. he
tourist o ce (Mon-Fri 8am-5pm) is in
the provincial capital building near
Siquijor Town, but can't do much more
than give you a map of the island (handy
for motorbike travel).

SOUTH OF DUMAGUETE
The beach resorts of Dauin are only a 20min drive south
of town, and make a pleasant alternative to staying in
the centre.
★

Liquid Barangay Bulak, Dauin T 0917 314 1778,
W liquiddumaguete.com. Run by a friendly British-
Canadian couple, this low-key dive resort has eight
attractive beach huts, all with sea views. There's wi-fi, a
pool, and the roof-top café serves tasty meals, good
cocktails and has a small bakery. There are also a few
super-cheap rooms (P350) at the back, tho ugh the se are
exclusively for dive instructors and students. P1450

8

EATING, DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE
Happy hour (4-6pm) is a nice time to watch the
promenaders on Rizal Blvd, though the bars get sleazier as
the night wears on.
The Blue Monkey Grill Silliman Ave cnr. Rizal Blvd.
Set in a pretty torch-lit garden in a prime location
for people-watching, its tasty food (P135) is popular
with college students. Mon-Sat 4pm-2am, Sun
4-11.30pm.

TREAT YOURSELF
Casablanca Rizal Blvd T 035422 4080.
The best steaks in town (and probably all
of Negros) are worth splashing out for,
even if you opt for the local beef
(P50-600), rather than imported. The
intimate inside is lined with movie posters
and has a decent deli, but it's more
atmospheric (and noisy) to sit outdoors
and watch the world wandering by, to the
backdrop of Siquijor across the water.
Daily 11am-9pm.

★