Brunei - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 58

Lim Ah Siaw Pork Market Jln Teraja. Eating pork in Brunei
is an illicit pleasure, since it's forbidden to raise pigs in this
country. This cheerful, casual eatery attached to a market
serves all things porky, from pork belly to BBQ ribs. If that's
not your thing, there's asam prawn, mango fish rice and other
treats to choose from. Mains from B$6. Daily 7am-10pm.
★

Shopping malls Yayasan Complex (Jln Pretty; 10am-
10pm); Centrepoint and The Mall complexes (same hours)
in Gadong.

1

Temburong
District
he sparsely populated and seldom visited
Temburong district is Brunei's great
expanse of untouched jungle, and the
country's greatest natural attraction.
Temburong's nondescript main town,
Bangar , is the gateway to the pristine
forest that lies within - protected in
Ulu Temburong National Park , easily
visited as a day-trip or overnight with one
of Bandar's tour companies (see opposite).

Pasar Malam Gadong Jln Pasar Gadong. Not far from
The Mall in Gadong, this neatly organized night-market is
a feast for the senses and the best place to try Malay-style
noodle and rice dishes, as well as Brunei's national dish -
ambuyat . There are not many places to sit down, though,
as most folks get takeaway. Dishes from B$3.50. Daily
4-10pm.
Taman Selera Jln Tasek Lama & Jln Stoney. Located in a
park opposite the Terrace hotel, this night-market is home
to more than twenty stalls serving a mix of Malay and
international food. Roti john (omelette sandwich with or
without meat) is a popular snack among locals and the
satay and the seafood dishes are excellent. Daily 5-10pm.
Tamu Kianggeh Jln Sungai Kianggeh. The food stalls at
this colourful produce market across a bridge serve good,
cheap soto ayam (spicy chicken noodle soup), satay,
nasi campur (mixed rice), kelupis (glutinous rice steamed
in a leaf ) and other Malay staples. Mains from B$2. It's at
its busiest and best on weekends. From 5pm.

ULU TEMBURONG NATIONAL
PARK
Undoubtedly one of Brunei's highlights,
the lowland rainforest of Ulu Temburong
National Park is home to rich flora and
fauna with Borneo's famous proboscis
monkey a guaranteed sight on any trip.
he park consists of 500 square kilometres
of pristine rainforest, with only a tiny
fraction of it open to visitors, who come
here for short jungle hikes, swimming in
a waterfall and a canopy walk.
Day-trips to the park typically start
with a hair-raising “flying co n” journey
from Bandar to Bangar. Boats scream
through narrow mangrove estuaries that
are home to crocodiles and proboscis
monkeys, swooping around corners at a
45-degree angle. From the Bangar jetty,
it's a twenty-minute drive south to the
jetty at the small kampung of Batang
Duri . From here you make your way
upstream to Ulu Temburong Park
Headquarters along Sungai Temburong;
this stretch is very shallow in dry season,
and when the water level is low you may
have to get out and help pull the boat
over rocks. Otherwise, it's an exhilarating
thirty-minute trip, with the boatman
deftly propelling the temuai (Iban
longboat) around the submerged logs and
rocks and riding the rapids.

DIRECTORY
Bookshops Paul & Elizabeth Book Services, 2nd Floor,
Yayasan Complex, Jln Pretty.
Embassies and consulates Australia, Level 6, DAR Takaful
IBB Utama, Jln Pemancha ( T 02 229435); Canada, 5th Floor,
Jalan McArthur Building, 1 Jln McArthur ( T 02 220043);
Indonesia, Lot 4498, Simpang 528, Kg Sungei Hanching Baru,
Jln Muara ( T 02 330180); New Zealand, c/o Deloitte &
Touche, 5th floor, Wisma Hajjah Fatimah, 22-23 Jln Sultan
( T 02 222422); UK, Level 2, Block D, Yayasan Complex, Sultan
Hassanal Bolkiah, Jln Pretty ( T 02 222231); US, impang 336-
52-16-9, Jln Kebangsaan ( T 02 220384).
Exchange There are many cash-only moneychangers on
Jln McArthur with identical rates, and a variety of banks
with ATMs on Jln Sultan, including HSBC.
Hospitals The RIPAS Hospital ( T 02 242424), across
Edinburgh Bridge on Jln Putera Al-Muhtadee Billah, has
the best equipment, 24hr emergency services and English-
speaking staff.
Internet La Ling Cyber Café, 2nd floor, Yayasan Complex
(daily 9am-9pm; B$3/hr).
Laundry Superkleen, opposite Brunei Hotel , Jln Pemancha
(Sat-Thurs 9am-6pm).
Pharmacies Yin Chee Dispensary, Jln Bunga Kuning;
Khong Lin Dispensary, G3A, Wisma Jaya, Jln Pemancha.
Post o ce The GPO (Mon-Thurs & Sat 7.45am-12.15pm
& 1.30-4.30pm; Fri 8-11am & 2-4pm) is at the inter-
section of Jln Elizabeth Dua and Jln Sultan.