The Philippines - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 617

options include a visit to pretty nearby
waterfalls, rice terraces, and kayaking on
the Chico River: see W luzonoutdoors.com,
a liated with SEGA.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus Buses and jeepneys terminate by the new town
hall on the main street. The Halsema Highway to Sagada
traverses the highest point on the Philippine highway
system (2339m), so bring warm clothing for the trip from
Baguio, and don't look down. GL Lizardo runs buses to
Baguio (7 daily; 5am-1pm; 5-6hr).
By jeepney Jeepneys leave Sagada every 30min from
6.30am-9pm, then hourly from 9am-1pm for Bontoc
(45min), where you can change for Banaue or Manila.

and a slice of lemon pie (P25), made with juicy local
lemons. Free wi-fi. Daily 6am-9pm.
★

Log Cabin Café T 0920 520 0463. Very popular
restaurant which rustles up tasty dishes using different
market-fresh produce each day. The setting is cosy, with a
crackling fire, and there's a great Saturday-night buffet
(P390) whipped up by their French chef at 7pm. Dinner
only. Essential to book in advance. Daily 6-10pm.
Yoghurt House Great place in which to soak up the
surrounding views from the first-floor balcony and tuck
into a creamy home-made yoghurt (P70). Excellent break-
fasts and hearty dinners. The chocolate chip cookies are a
must. Daily 7.30am-9pm.

DIRECTORY
Banks and exchange The Rural Bank of Sagada has
an ATM, although it's inside the bank and thereby only
works in line with the bank's opening hours (Tues-Sat
8.30am-4.30pm); it's much safer to stock up on pesos
in Baguio. The bank will change dollars and travellers'
cheques at an unfavourable rate. There's also a Western
Union here.
Internet Try Golinsan , behind the new municipal hall
(daily 7.30am-8pm; P30/hr).

INFORMATION
Tourist information It is strongly advised that all
visitors register (P20) upon arrival at the Tourist Informa-
tion Center (daily 6am-5pm; T 0905 137 626, W sagada
.org/tourism) inside the old municipal hall. They can also
help organize tours.
Tours The Sagada Environmental Guides Association
(SEGA; daily 6am-6pm; W sega.sagada.org) are the
longest established and fix all guiding prices in the region;
Sagada Genuine Guides Association (SaGGAs; daily 8am-
7pm) also provide guides.

8

BONTOC
he capital of Mountain province,
BONTOC , is the first major town in the
north beyond Baguio. It lies on the banks
of the Chico River, 45 minutes east of
Sagada by jeepney.
Bontoc is primarily a commercial town
used by tourists as a rest-stop on the
circuit to Banaue. It is, however, gaining
a reputation as a good place for trekking ;
contact the tourism information centre
(Mon-Fri 8am-5pm) in the municipal
hall, or get in touch directly with local
guide Francis Degay ( T 0948 678 7290,
E

ACCOMMODATION
Reservations are advised over holiday periods.
Masferre Inn T 0918 341 6164. Just below the public
market. Owned by the Masferre family, this friendly place
has clean, simple rooms, some with balconies and views.
The restaurant is decent and the walls a re ador ned with
pictures by Eduardo Masferre (see p.619). P1500
★

Sagada Homestay On the road to Besao T 0919 702
8380, E [e-mail]. The smell of fresh
pinewood permeates this wonderful family-run guesthouse
with an alpine feel. Rooms are clean and cosy and the
welcoming family do their utmost to make guests f eel at
home. Hot water, free wi-fi and outstanding massages. P500
St Joseph's Resthouse T 0918 559 5934. This friendly
place, with great views of the surrounding countryside,
has cheap rooms in the main building, and more expensive
cottages (P1700) all decked out in local w ood in the
attractive hilltop garden. Great restaurant, too. P500

[e-mail]). Guides for up to
four people cost around P1500 per day.
Don't miss the small but excellent Bontoc
Museum (daily 8am-noon & 1-5pm;
P50) behind Pines Kitchenette and Inn .
It features fascinating black-and-white
photos and various artefacts of tribal life
in the Cordilleras, plus a decent shop
downstairs. Check out the replica village
built in the grounds.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus Hourly to Baguio 5am-4pm (6-7hr) on D'Rising
Sun, GL Lizardo, and Dangwa. Cable Tours buses for Manila

EATING AND DRINKING
Bana's Café & Restaurant Sagada's best Arabica and Civet
coffees (P30) at this simple café with a terrace, the perfect
place to stock up before a long trek. Daily 7am-7pm.
Lemon Pie House At the bottom of the village, past
George Guesthouse . This laidback café with pillows set
around cute pine tables is a great spot for a coffee (P30)