Brunei - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 57

GETTING AROUND
By bus Local buses leave from the bus station on Jln Cator,
right in the centre of town (6.30am-6pm; from B$1).
There are six lines - Northern, Circle, Southern, Central,
Western and Eastern - and routes are clearly displayed
in the bus station, with an explanatory map. Frequency
varies and some buses (#57 and #58) run rather erratically.
By taxi There are set fares to get to most locations in
Bandar, with a fifty percent surcharge after 10pm; from
the city centre to the Brunei Museum costs about B$10;
B$15 to Gadong; B$30 to the airport; B$35 to the Serasa
Wharf in Muara and B$35-40 to the Empire Hotel . Taxis
wait outside the bus station on Jln Cator or you can call
one on T 02 222214.
By water taxi The jetty below the intersection of Jln
Roberts and Jln McArthur is the best place to catch a
motorized canoe across the river to Kampong Ayer (B$1).

1

KH Soon Resthouse 140 Jln Pemancha T 02 222052,
W khsoon-resthouse.tripod.com. Situated right by the
bus station, this is a sprawling guesthouse with spartan
rooms and largely indifferent staff. The a/c rooms are large
and most are en suite, but they could be cleaner and it's
worryi ng to see ele ctricit y sockets next to the showers.
Dorm B$18 , double B$35 , en-suite double B$40
Pusat Belia Jln Sungei Kianggeh T 02 222900, W brunei
youth.org.bn. By far the cheapest and best option for back-
packers, this youth centre has sparklingly-clean single-sex
four- and ten-bed dorms with a few facilities. There's a huge
pool downstairs for guests to use (B$1.50) and an internet
café (closed on Sun) next door. The rarely-staffed reception
is open between 7.45am and 4.30pm, with staff supposedly
on call until 10pm. Ask at the internet café t o cont act them
for you - they're usually not far away. Dorm B$15
★

Terrace Hotel Jln Tasek Lama T 02 243554, W terrace
brunei.com. Though the compact rooms at this central
hotel are a little musty, they come with double beds, cable
TV, in-room kettles and free use of the swimming pool.
There's wi-fi in the lobby; the gym is an extra B$5/hr and
the rest auran t serves tasty Chinese and Malay dishes.
Double B$65

INFORMATION AND TOURS
Tourist information You can pick up tourist info and
decent maps from the information counter at the airport
(daily 8am-noon & 1.30-5pm), the Kampong Ayer Cultural
& Tourism Gallery (see p.57) and the Old Customs House
on the waterfront (Sat-Thurs 9am-5pm, Fri 9-11am &
2.30-5pm).
Tour operators Danny ( T 073 880 1180) is a freelance
tour guide who usually hangs around the Jln Cator bus
station wearing a beret and waistcoat with a Confederate-
flag design; he is a treasure trove of local information
who can arrange onward travel and excellent boat tours
(see p.57). Sunshine Borneo Tours ( T 02 446509,
W exploreborneo.com), an offshoot of the Kuching-based
Borneo Adventure (see box, p.482), run tours to Ulu
Temburong National Park - both day-trips and overnight
stays. Borneo Guide ( T 02 426923 or T 08 766798,
W borneoguide.com) specializes in eco-programmes
around Brunei and beyond; day-trips to Ulu Temburong
National Park include meals, the canopy walk, a short
jungle hike and a visit to a longhouse; overnight visits
also available.

EATING AND DRINKING
Bandar has a decent eating scene that ranges from
excellent night-markets and street stalls serving local
specialities to a wealth of international cuisine.
Aminah Arif Unit 2-3, Block B, Rahman Bldg, Spg 88,
Kiulap W aminaarif.com.bn; bus #20 to the Kg Kiulap stop.
Don't want to leave without sampling Brunei's signature
dish? This is one of the best places to try it. Bring a friend
and go for the “ ambuyat special” (B$16 for two). If sago
gloop just isn't for you, there are plenty of noodle, rice and
soupy dishes to choose from. Daily noon-10pm.
CA Mohamed Unit 202, Yayasan Complex, Jln McArthur.
On the top floor above the food court (above the KFC ), this
local favourite is famous for its Indian Muslim dishes, such
as murtabak , a good number of veggie options and its
delicious, inexpensive lunch specials which include soup,
a main with rice and a drink (B$7). Daily noon-8pm.
Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 67 Jalan Sultan. A favourite
with travellers, expats and lunching o ce workers,
Borneo's answer to Starbucks offers an extensive menu of
teas, coffees and ice-blended drinks, great cakes (B$3.90),
hearty breakfasts, large sandwiches (smoked salmon,
Cajun chicken) and inexpensive pasta dishes (B$10) - all in
an a/c, wi-fi-enabled environment. Daily 9am-10pm.
Kaisen Sushi Jln McArthur, next door to Port View Café.
The austere decor at this classy Japanese restaurant
belies the variety and colourfulness of its dishes - from
imaginative sushi roll sets (from B$8) to tempura, rice
dishes and yakitori , accompanied by fresh fruit juices or
Japanese tea. Daily noon-10pm.

ACCOMMODATION
There's not a lot of choice when it comes to central
accommodation, budget or otherwise, but unless you
have your own wheels, it's not particularly convenient to
be based anywhere else.
Jubilee Hotel Jln Kampung Kianggeh T 02 228070,
W jubileehotelbrunei.com. This central high-rise lacks
the Terrace 's swimming pool, but its clean yet uninspiring
rooms are comparable. The “superior” rooms come with
kitchenettes, and the rate includes breakfast, airport
pick-up and transfers to one BSB attraction of your choice.
The do wnsta irs restaurant serves good local dishes.
Double B$95