The Philippines - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 614

artefacts from the region, as well as a
Kabayan mummy.

for Banaue: KMS (Chanum Street) has two departures daily
(8am & 9.30pm; 8hr); various companies travel to San
Fernando, La Union (hourly; 2hr 30min), leaving from the
terminal on Shagem St. Buses for all other destinations
leave from the terminal in Governor Pack Rd near Session
Rd: Manila (hourly until 11pm; 6hr); Vigan (hourly; 5hr).

Tam-awan Village
On the northwest outskirts of Baguio,
Tam-awan Village (daily 8am-6pm; P50;
T

074 446 2949, W tam-awanvillage.com)
is a replica tribal village comprised of
eight Ifugao houses and two Kalinga huts
where you can stay and drink rice wine
around a traditional Bontoc dap-ay , an
outdoor meeting place with a fire at its
centre. here is also a variety of native
craft workshops on offer. Cordilleran
food is prepared on site, work by local
artists is available to buy, and staff will
often perform ceremonies, songs and
dances for visitors. An overnight stay here
is an experience (P1000 for a small hut
for two people with shared toilets and
showers). Take a jacket because it can get
surprisingly cold. You can reach
Tam-awan Village by taxi for less than
P100, or take a Tam-awan jeepney (P11)
from Kayang Street.

INFORMATION
Tourist information The DOT o ce (Mon-Fri
8am-5pm; T 074 442 7014, E dot_cordillera@yahoo
.com) is in the Tourism Complex on Governor Pack Rd,
while the Baguio Tourism Council (Mon-Sat 8am-5pm,
Sun 8am-noon; T 074 446 3434) is on Lake Rd. You can
pick up an EZ Baguio map at the National Bookstore in
the SM Mall.

ACCOMMODATION
Baguio Village Inn 355 Magsaysay Ave T 074 442 3901
or T 0917 570 9675. This spotless place, a 10min walk to
the bottom of Session Road, has plain smallish rooms and
hardwood floors throu ghout; there's a pleasant coffee
shop in the foyer. P850
La Brea Inn 23 Lower Session Rd T 074 446 6061,
E [e-mail]. Clean and tidy rooms right in
the centre of Baguio and just a short stroll from many cafés
and restau rants; a ll rooms have private bath and cable TV.
Free wi-fi. P1100
Oyana Lodge 118 Villalon St T 074 244 1235. All the
rooms are decked out in princess pink at this clea n little
guesthouse with hot water, cable TV and free wi-fi. P1500

8

The BenCab Museum
In February 2009, National Artist for
the visual arts and longtime Baguio
resident Benedicto Cabrera (universally
known as BenCab), the driving force
behind the Tam-awan Village, opened the
BenCab Museum (Tues-Sun 9am-6pm;
P100). About fifteen minutes outside
Baguio, it's home to a mix of
contemporary Filipino art and indigenous
Cordilleran crafts in a beautiful setting
- on a clear day you can even see the
South China Sea. he tranquil café is also
worth a stop. To get here, catch a jeepney
(P11) bound for Asin from beside the
market, and let the driver know where
you're going.

EATING
★

Café by the Ruins 25 Chuntug St. In a wonderful airy
setting with rustic tables set around ruins, this café serves
hearty soups (P100), organic vegetarian dishes and local
favourites including pinikpikan , a tribal delicacy that's also
known as “killing me softly” because the chicken is
whipped slowly to death to make the meat bloody and
tender (P180). Fresh bread, home-made jams and cookies,
too. Wi-fi available. Daily 7am-9pm.
Ebai's Upper Session Rd. The home-made carrot cake
(P53) here was designed for President Ramos himself;
there are plenty of other options for those with a sweet
tooth including chocolate, apple and almond cakes, and
there's great freshly brewed Cordillera coffee (P35), too.
Mains for less than P200. Daily 7am-10pm.
★

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus Buses including Victory Liner, Partas, Dagupan,
Genesis and Philippine Rabbit drop passengers on the
eastern edge of the city on Governor Pack Rd. KMS and
Ohayami buses arrive at the western end of Burnham Park.
Destinations

Oh My Gulay 5th Floor, La Azotea Building, 108
Session Rd. This unique vegetarian café-cum-art gallery
translates as “Oh my vegetable” - dishes are light,
including salads, sandwiches and pastas (P120). The
impressive native-wood interior designed by local artist
and film-maker Kidlat Tahimik features half a ship's hull
and a stream with goldfish. A must-see. Daily 11am-8pm,
Sun until 7pm.

For Sagada: GL Lizardo has hourly trips from
the Dangwa terminal on Magsayasay Ave (6hr). Buses for
Bontoc: D'Rising Sun from the Slaughterhouse Terminal
on the hour 5am-4pm (5-6hr). Several morning A-Liner
buses also leave from here for Kabayan (4hr 30min). Buses