The Philippines - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 611

shops and cafés; running parallel to it is
the main thoroughfare, Governor A.
Reyes Street. On Plaza Salcedo stands
St Paul's Metropolitan Cathedral (daily
5am-6pm; free), built here in 1790 in
“earthquake baroque” style, following the
tectonic destruction of the original
building on the banks of the river. Across
the square is the Father José Burgos
Museum (Tues-Sun 8.30-11.30am &
1.30-4.30pm; P10), a captivating old
colonial house that was once home to one
of the town's most famous residents,
Padre José Burgos, whose martyrdom in
1872 galvanized the revolutionary
movement. It houses Burgos
memorabilia, as well as fourteen paintings
by the artist Villanueva, depicting the
violent 1807 Basi Revolt, prompted by a
Spanish effort to control the production
of basi (sugar-cane wine).
Two Heritage Houses worth popping
into are the Syquia Mansion on Quirino
Boulevard (daily 9am-noon & 2-5pm;
P20) and the Crisologo Museum on
Liberation Boulevard (daily 8.30-
11.30am & 1.30-4.30pm; free), which
house various colonial artefacts and
exhibits on the area. Vigan is also known
for its pottery . he massive wood-fired
kilns at the Pagburnayan Potteries in
Rizal Street, at the junction with
Liberation Boulevard, turn out huge jars,
known as burnay , in which northerners
store everything from vinegar to fish
paste. Carabao (water buffalo) are still
used to squash the clay under hoof.

he first week of May is the Viva Vigan
Arts Festival , one of the biggest cultural
events in North Luzon, when the usually
staid town lets down its hair with a calesa
parade and lots of street dancing.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By plane The airport is 6km west of the city centre. A
tricycle into town is P20.
Destinations SEAAIR fly between Manila (departing
2.30pm; 1hr) and Vigan (departing 4.30pm; 1hr) every Fri
& Sun. More flights (Cebu Pacific, PAL Express) can be
found to Laoag, a 2hr (P180) bus ride from Vigan.
By bus Partas buses use their terminal near the Vigan
Public Market in Alcantara St at the southern end of town.
Dominion buses arrive and depart from the corner of
Quezon Ave (the main street running south to north) and
Liberation Blvd. Viron Trans use their terminal in Barangay
Ayusan Norte. For the long trip back to Manila, Partas buses
offer the most comfort, and three nightly express services.
You can also catch a/c buses from the Caltex station on the
highway to Laoag Airport. A tricycle between any of the bus
terminals and the town centre is P30.
Destinations

8

Baguio (hourly; 5hr); Laoag (hourly; 2hr);
Manila (hourly; 9hr); San Fernando (hourly; 3hr).

INFORMATION
Tourist information Vigan City Tourism (Mon-Fri
8am-5pm; T 077 622 8776, W vigancity.gov.ph) is in the
City Hall; they have an information centre open on Calle
Crisologo (daily 8am-5pm). The Provincial Tourism Centre
(daily 8am-noon & 1-5pm; T 077 722 8520) is right by
Café Leona in Plaza Burgos.

ACCOMMODATION
Grandpa's Inn 1 Bonifacio St T 077 722 2118. This cosy
heritage house full of old knick-knacks has welcoming
rooms, all with lovely wooden floors and most with brick
walls. The communal bathrooms are a bit grimy; it's worth
payin g a lit tle extra for a private bathroom (P980). Free
wi-fi. P730
HEM Apartelle 32 Gov. A. Reyes St T 077 722 2173. This
new hotel has six sparkling rooms, all with p rivate bath;
staff are helpful and there is free wi-fi. P1000
Vigan Hotel Burgos St T 077 722 1906. Located in a
colonial building, this hotel epitomizes the city's culture
and Spanish heritage, although the cheaper fan roo ms wi th
shared bathrooms (P595) are run-down. Free wi-fi. P995

TREAT YOURSELF
Villa Angela Heritage House Quirino
Blvd T 077 722 2914, W villangela.com.
The most colonial of all the colonial
hotels, this beautiful old Heritage House
built in 1870 is a real Vigan landmark, and
the place to wallow in history under the
canopy of a four-poster bed. The house is
chock-full of old photos and antiques; if
you like your history a bit more modern,
ask for the room Tom Cruise slept in: he
stayed here for a few weeks in 1989 when
filming Born on the Fourth of July on the
sand dunes in nearb y Laoa g. Dorm beds
available from P550. P2000

★

EATING AND DRINKING
One of Vigan's specialities is empanada , a type of tortilla
that you can pick up for a few pesos from one of the
many street stalls and small bakeries - try Irene's on
Salcedo Street.