Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Brunei's largest mosque, constructed to
commemorate the silver jubilee of the
sultan's reign in 1992.
Buses #01, #20 and #22 skirt the
grounds of the mosque, 3km from the
centre en route to the shopping area
of Gadong.
passport control, a tourist information booth and ATMs.
Taxis to the centre cost around B$30 (around B$40 after
9pm). Alternatively, bear right as you exit arrivals into the
free parking zone where you can catch a bus (#23, #24 or
#34; every 15min; 6.30am-6pm; B$1) into town. Brunei
airport departure tax is B$5 for flights to east Malaysia and
B$12 to all other destinations.
Destinations
1
Bangkok, Thailand (daily; 4hr); Hong Kong
(daily; 3hr 30min); Kota Kinabalu, Sabah (daily; 40min);
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (daily; 2hr 20min); Kuching, Sarawak
(3 weekly; 1hr 10min); Manila, Philippines (several daily;
2hr); Singapore (daily; 2hr).
By boat “Flying co n” boats (thus named because of
their shape and possibly because of the occasionally hair-
raising ride) run between the Jalan Residency jetty 2km
east of the centre of Bandar and Bangar.
Destinations Bangar (roughly hourly between 6am-
4.30pm; 45min).
By bus Long-distance buses from Sabah and Sarawak
arrive at and depart from the large car park opposite
the Royal Regalia Museum (see opposite). Buses from
Kalimantan arrive at the bus terminal inside the multi-
storey car park on Jalan Cator. Jesselton Express ( T 02 714
5734, W sipitangexprress.com) runs to Kota Kinabalu,
Sabah via Limbang, Bangar and Lawas (see box below),
while PHLS Express ( T 02 771668, W phls38.com.bn)
serves Miri, Sarawak via Seria and Kuala Berait. For a
marginally pricier but more convenient option for Miri,
it's possible to arrange door-to-door pick-up via Mrs Lee
of Dillenia Guesthouse (see p.490). S. J. S. Executive Bus
( T 02 713 0686, W sjsbus.wordpress.com) runs to
Pontianak, Kalimantan.
Destinations Kota Kinabalu, Sabah (daily at 8am; 9hr);
Miri, Sarawak via Kuala Belait (5 daily; 4hr); Pontianak
(daily at 9am; 26hr).
The Istana Nurul Iman
he o cial residence of the sultan is sited
along the banks of the Sungai Brunei,
4km west of the capital. Bigger than either
Buckingham Palace or the Vatican, the
Istana is a monument to self-indulgence,
with 1788 rooms, including a staggering
257 bathrooms and a royal banquet hall
that can seat four thousand. Designed by
Filipino architect Leanrdo Locsin, it is a
blend of traditional and modern, with
Islamic motifs, such as arches and domes,
and sloping roofs fashioned on traditional
longhouse designs, combined with all the
mod cons you'd expect of a homeowner
whose fortune is estimated at US$22
billion. Still, from the outside it looks
remarkably like an airport terminal. he
palace is open to the general public for
three days after Ramadan, when you get to
shake hands with the sultan himself and
get a goodie bag.
Empire Hotel & Country Club
Ever wondered what a US$1.1 billion
folly looks like? If so, it's worth taking a
bus to this beyond-extravagant hotel ,
built on the orders of less-than-prudent
Prince Jefri as lodging for the guests of
the royal family. he hotel is now a
luxurious resort with touches such as the
US$500,000 gold-and-Baccarat crystal
lamps in the lobby and the Emperor
Suite (home to Michael Jackson during
his reclusive period), which goes for only
B$17,000 a night. You don't have to stay
here in order to bask in the opulence; a
flying visit and an inexpensive cup of tea
in the lounge su ces. Since bus #57 runs
only three times daily, plan a leisurely
visit or arrange a taxi back (B$35).
INTO MALAYSIA: KOTA
KINABALU
You can now take a direct air-conditioned
bus from Bandar to Kota Kinabalu in
Sabah. There are eight immigration stops
along the way - the first as you leave
Brunei, the second on entering Sarawak at
Kuala Lurah and the third departing
Sarawak, which is followed by number four,
re-entering Brunei at Ujong Jalan. The
remaining four stops are, in order, on
departing Brunei again, re-entering Sarawak
at Labu, departing Sarawak, and then on
entering Sabah at Pantai. Along the way,
the bus stops for a 45-minute lunch break
and the nine-hour journey is a good way of
appreciating Borneo's scenery.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By plane Brunei International Airport (Lapangan Terbang
Antarabangsa; T 02 331747, W civil-aviation.gov.bn) is
8km north of the city. There are free public phones beyond
 
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