Myanmar (Burma) - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 580

TREKKING AROUND HSIPAW
The most popular trekking route from Hsipaw is to a Palaung village called Pan Kam , usually
as an overnight trip. It's a 4-5-hour walk through fields and then uphill, starting at a Muslim
cemetery on the western edge of Hsipaw and continuing through the villages of Nar Loy,
Par Pheit, Nar Moon and Man Pyit.
The headman at Pan Kam, O Maung, works closely with the Mr Charles Guest House in Hsipaw
so the village can get busy. Some people prefer, therefore, to sleep at Htan Sant around 1hr
15min further along. You might want to stop in Pan Kam for lunch at O Maung's home, then
ask for advice about the onward route. The main route to Htan Sant is the left path at a fork
just after you leave Pan Kam, but the right path has exceptional views of the valley. Make sure
you have plenty of time to reach Htan Sant before dark, particularly if you take the less-
travelled right-hand path.
Accommodation in Htan Sant can be arranged with the headman, Khao San Aye; the next
day you can either retrace your steps or press on through Paw Ka, Ohn Mu and Sar Maw. The
latter takes around eight hours and comes out at Baw Gyo Pagoda on the main highway,
from where you can find a pick-up or hitch back the 8km to Hsipaw.
If you get directions from your guesthouse, and don't mind asking regularly once walking,
then it's possible to do these hikes without a guide. Dinner, bed and breakfast cost around
K5000 per person. It's worth considering supporting independent local guides, however, such
as Than Htike ( T 09 36186646, E [e-mail]) who charges K10,000 per person
per day including accommodation.
The most popular three-day hike starts from the hilltop village of Namhsan , a 6hr pick-up
ride from Hsipaw, but the area has been off-limits following fighting between the army and a
Palaung militia. Another option is to hike to Kyaukme , which takes three days - it's possible to
have your bags sent along. Guides can also arrange longer, more adventurous treks.

7

If you rent a motorbike then several
other options open up. One is to ride
east out of town to a series of peaceful
riverside Shan villages . Another is to head
towards Lashio, through the village of
Su Plan - where the Song Pinong
restaurant does wonderful barbecue fish
with tamarind sauce (K1500) - and on to
an ice factory in Pan Hsao which uses
ingenious home-made equipment. A little
further along is a dragon fruit plantation
with a picturesque viewing platform.
Another way to explore the area is by
river . Moe Ma Khan, on Pontoon Rd
( T 09 47310166), charges K25,000 per
boat for a four- to five-hour trip including
visits to a monastery and a Shan village.

11hr 30min); Pyin Oo Lwin (6 daily; 3hr 30min); Yangon (3
daily; 13hr 30min).
By shared taxi Vehicles to Mandalay (5hr 30min) or
Pyin Oo Lwin (3hr 30min) run at around 6.30am and 2.30pm.
Book through your guesthouse or through Khaing Dhabyay,
Bogyoke Rd.
By train The train station is on the western side of the
town centre, and tickets are only sold on the day of travel.
If you're heading for Mandalay it's much quicker to get off
at Pyin Oo Lwin and take a bus. This still allows you to see
the spectacular Goteik viaduct (see p.581).
Destinations Kyaukme (daily; 1hr 15min); Lashio (daily;

4hr); Mandalay (daily; 13hr 15min); Pyin Oo Lwin (daily;
6hr 40min).

ACCOMMODATION
By far the most successful place in town is Mr Charles Guest
House , but some people are uncomfortable with the extent
of the owner's influence over tourism in Hsipaw.
Evergreen Thein Ni St T 082 80670 or T 09 5278274.
This large white concrete building has 26 rooms, with a/c
available for $25 as well as en-suite fan rooms for $20;
both of these have TVs and DVD players. Some of the rooms
smell of cigarette smoke so you may wa nt to see a few
before choosing. There's wi-fi at reception. $10
Lily the Home 108 Aung Thepye St T 082 80318 or
T 09 5133900, E [e-mail].
An excellent choice, with a range of rooms - the cheapest

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus or minibus Buses pick up and set down
passengers at the bus company o ces in town, including
Duhtawadi, Lanmataw St (who run an a/c bus at 2.30pm),
and Yee Shin, Namtu St. There are also several companies
on Bogoke Rd including Khaing Dhabyay, who also arrange
minibuses to Mandalay.
Destinations Kalaw (3 daily; 12hr 30min); Kyaukme (3 daily;

1hr); Lashio (2 daily; 2hr); Mandalay (7 daily; 5hr); Nay Pyi
Taw (3 daily; 11hr 30min); Nyaungshwe for Inle Lake (3 daily;