Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
(4 daily; 1hr); Pyay (daily; 10hr 30min); Yangon (5-6
daily; 10hr).
By train The station is around 5.5km southeast of Nyaung
U, and a taxi between the two costs K7000. You can buy
tickets from Blue Sea ( T 061 60949 or T 09 2040135),
a frozen food retailer on the main road in Nyaung U.
Destinations Mandalay (daily; 8hr); Pyay (2-3 weekly;
9-10hr); Yangon (daily; 17hr).
By boat All services leave from the jetties in either
Nyaung U (northeast of the market) or Old Bagan (outside
the old walls, to the north), with the departure point
depending on water levels. Three private operators,
N Mai Hka, Malikha 2 and Mayanmar Golden River Group
(MGRG), run tourist boats to Mandalay ($35 including
breakfast; MGRG also include lunch). All services depart
at 6am and arrive at 4.30-5.30pm, although be prepared
for a late arrival. It's easiest to buy tickets through tour
agencies (see below). The government agency, IWT,
which has an o ce selling tickets close to the Nyaung U
jetty, runs slow boats to Mandalay (Mon & Thurs 7am;
34hr; $10).
By pick-up Vehicles run roughly hourly between Nyaung U
and New Bagan (K1000; 45min), via Old Bagan and Myin-
kaba, until 4pm and less frequently after that. They stop at
the main junction in New Bagan, Tharabar Gate in Old Bagan,
and at the roundabout by the main market in Nyaung U.
ACCOMMODATION
Most travellers on a tight budget stay in Nyaung U or Wet
Kyi Inn. There are no budget hotels in Old Bagan, and if you
do feel like treating yourself then there's better value in
New Bagan's mid-range accommodation.
NYAUNG U
Eden Motel Anawrahta Rd T 061 60639; map p.556. Split
into two parts on opposite sides of the road; some rooms in
Eden Motel I have bamboo-covered walls and wooden floors,
while Eden Motel II goes for concr ete, a lthough at least the
newest rooms are brightly painted. $25
May Kha Lar Main Rd T 061 60304; map p.556. A
reliable and popular budget choice, even if some of the
rooms are rough around the edges. All have a/ c an d some
have wi-fi; a private bathroom costs $10 extra. $20
Shwe Na Di Main Rd T 061 60409 or T 09 402510138;
map p.556. The cheapest rooms here have shared
bathrooms, while a few more dollars will get you slightly
shabby en-suite facilities. The newer, very pink, bloc k at
the back has the nicest rooms ($30). All have a/c. $15
View Point Inn Anawrahta Rd T 061 61070 or T 09
2043096; map p.556. The bare-bones fan rooms (with shared
bathroom) at this family-run guesthouse are the cheapest
you're likely to find in Bagan, and they also have a/c rooms for
$15 or $17 (en suite). There's even a small and very basic dorm
with beds for $5, although you don't get breakfast. $13
7
INFORMATION
Guides Licensed guides can be hired for $30/day from
tour agencies or through accommodation.
Tourist information There are o cial tourist o ces
(daily 9.30am-4.30pm) on Anawrahta Rd in Nyaung U
and on Main Rd in New Bagan.
Tour agencies Ever Sky, Thiripyitsaya 4 St, Nyaung U
(daily 7.30am-9.30pm; T 061 60895 or T 09 43008170,
E everskynanda@gmail.com); Seven Diamond, Main Rd,
Nyaung U (daily 8.30am-5pm; T 061 60883).
GETTING AROUND
By bicycle Many places rent out bikes, including most
accommodation. Expect to pay up to K4000/day in Old or
New Bagan, or K1500/day in Nyaung U. Get a bike with a
light, or bring a head torch, if you plan to stay out for
sunset - there are few street lights and the main roads
can be busy as night falls.
By boat Sunset sightseeing boats depart from Old Bagan
jetty around 4.30pm (K10,000 per boat for up to four
people; 1hr).
By electric bicycle Foreigners are not allowed to rent
motorbikes in Bagan, but enterprising shops and restau-
rants get around this by renting imported Chinese e-bikes
to tourists for K8000/day. It's a fun way to travel, but they
aren't especially robust and are very heavy to pedal if you
run out of juice.
By horse and cart A popular option for getting around
the temples, although it's generally slower than cycling.
From Nyaung U, expect to pay around K18,000/day, going
no further than Myinkaba (heading to New Bagan would
cost K3000-4000 extra).
WET KYI INN
Winner Guest House Main Rd T 061 61069 or T 09
402501091; map pp.554-555. The cheapest rooms here
are concrete-floored boxes with shared bathrooms, but at
least they're cheap by Bagan standards and the place has
TREAT YOURSELF
Kumudara Corner of 5th & Daw Na St,
New Bagan T 061 65142 or T 09 6505221,
W kumudara-bagan.com; map pp.554-
555. This hotel benefits from the best
temple views of any establishment
outside of Old Bagan, particularly around
dawn when hot-air balloon flights take off.
The rooms are getting a little dated, but
still represent good value (unlike wi-fi at
$10 per day, although there's limited free
access on their computers). The re's a
swimming pool and restaurant. $45
 
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