Myanmar (Burma) - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 541

national government wants to keep the
Rakhine people ignorant about their own
history. here's a government museum
(Tues-Sun 10am-4pm; K5000) as you
approach from the south, but many of the
objects inside are reproductions.

six months. It was constructed on a
grander scale than Shittaung temple,
built by Mintaikkha's father, and
supposedly it was hit by lightning in
1776 as a punishment for this disrespect.
On a hill to the south of Koe haung is
Pizi Paya , said to contain a testicle (' pizi ')
relic of the Buddha. Women are not
supposed to climb to the top, which is a
shame as there are good views of Koe
haung and the surrounding fields.
Following the road as it loops back
towards central Mrauk U, you pass the
hilltop Para Oke which was built by
another superstitious king: the people of
the kingdom were rebelling, and the
astrologer said that building a temple
would placate them. Opposite it is
Mong Kong Shwe Du , which was donated
by an intelligent princess who wanted to
be the cleverest in her next life too. It's
popular with people who want success,
which is why General han Shwe had a
small prayer hall built beside it.

Northern area
Most visitors start with the temples to
the north of the palace, an area which
includes the magnificent Shittaung .
Built in 1536 by King Minbin, its name
means “shrine of 80,000 images” but in
fact it had 84,000 - some are now
missing - representing the number of
methods which the Buddha taught to
achieve freedom from suffering. On your
left as you go up the steps you'll see
the Shittaung Pillar, an obelisk inscribed
with royal history.
From the terrace on the west side of
Shittaung there are good views of the
heavy-set Htut Kant Thein . Dating from
1571, it contains a spiral passageway with
niches containing Buddha statues and
images demonstrating the 64 traditional
hairstyles of Mrauk U. he passageway
leads up into the large stupa where there's
a final seated Buddha. A little further
west than Htut Kant hein is the older
Lay Myek Hna , a simple circular structure
with 28 Buddha images.
Following the road north from
Shittaung you pass several temples,
including Andaw , which contains two
octagonal concentric passages, and
Yatanabon - a big, solid stupa which
has been a favourite of treasure hunters
as its name means “a lot of jewellery”.
Pitaka Taik was a library and is decorated
with flower motifs; it is now protected
by a metal roof.
If you have time, keep going to
Mingalar Man Aung and the hall
containing the Nan Oo Image . he latter
is in a particularly nice spot, and there's
a small outdoor teashop.

7

South of the palace
he most interesting attraction south
of the palace, across the river, is
Sandamuni Kyaungtaik monastery. Look
out for a metal table-top on the right as
you enter its small museum, as it's
actually one of the few ceiling tiles which
escaped the destruction and looting of
the palace. In a separate pink concrete
building you'll find a Buddha image
dating from 308 BC, which had been
covered in cement - possibly to hide it
from invaders - then forgotten about
until the cement eyes fell off, around
twenty years ago.

Trip to Chin villages
he most popular day-trip from Mrauk U
heads along the Lemro River to a series of
Chin villages . his ethnic minority group
is best known for having old women
whose faces were tattooed in childhood
using a mix of soot and buffalo liver.
Visiting with a guide who knows many of
the villagers can be very rewarding.
A trip can be arranged with accommo-
dation or travel agents, and will typically
cost $70-80 for up to four people in a
boat, including a guide and transfers to

East of the palace
he largest of the temples east of the
palace is Koe Thaung (“shrine of 90,000
images”), hurriedly built in 1553 by an ill
King Mintaikkha because his astrologers
said that otherwise he would die within