Myanmar (Burma) - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget

Travel Reference

In-Depth Information

MRAUK U

he many sixteenth- and seventeenth-

century temples of MRAUK U , some of

them as sturdily built as fortresses, make

it one of the country's most significant

historical sites. Yet it receives only a

fraction of the number of tourists who

visit Bagan. Certainly Mrauk U is not on

the same scale, but it has its own appeal,

not least because the temples are located

within the town itself - although it is

rumoured that, as happened in Old

Bagan, the government plans to force

inhabitants out of the centre to develop it

as a tourist attraction. here's also a new

airport in the works.

It wasn't the first Rakhine capital, but

from 1430 onwards Mrauk U was a

centre for trade with merchants from as

far away as Europe. It was at the height of

its powers under King Minbin (who

ruled from 1531-53), when many of the

temples were built, and fell in 1784 when

the Konbaung dynasty - which would

later go on to found Mandalay -

conquered the territory. Many Rakhine

people hark back to the glory days of the

kingdom, and resent what they see as

continued Bamar dominance as well as

the unwelcome presence of the Rohingya

minority (see box, p.540).

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE

By plane The airport is 2.5km west of the town, a K3000

ride by tuk-tuk or K5000 by taxi.

By boat Boats to Mrauk U or Taunggok (for Ngapali

Beach) leave from a jetty 3km north of the town. Transport

to the jetty costs K3000 (tuk-tuk) or K5000 (taxi).

To Mrauk U The government ferry (6-7hr; $6 plus K500 for

a seat; T 043 23382) leaves at 7am on Tues and Fri; buy

tickets at the jetty from 6am. Two companies run more

comfortable private ferries: Shwe Pyi Tan (2hr 30min; $20)

at 7am on Wed, and Aung Kyaw Moe (5hr; $10) at 7am

on Mon, Thurs and Sat. The former company has an o ce

on Main Rd (daily 7.30am-8pm; T 043 22719 or T 09

49592709), the latter at the jetty ( T 09 49676706). You

can arrange a private boat for up to four people (5-6hr;

K150,000 return) at the airport and leave the same day,

as long as you arrive by about 2.30pm. Make sure you

agree on how many days they will wait for you in Mrauk U.

To Taunggok Shwe Pyi Tan has tickets to Taunggok ($35;

9hr) on Sat, Sun and Wed.

By bus The bus station is 4km west of town. The road to

Mrauk U was opened to foreigners in 2013 but taking a bus

(rather than an expensive taxi) is still almost unheard of -

try booking tickets through your guesthouse a couple of

days ahead.

Destinations

7

Mrauk U (3 daily; 4hr 30min; K10,000).

INFORMATION AND TOURS

Freelance guides wait at the airport; reliable guides

include Than Tun ( T 09 250242844; E jimes.htun@gmail

.com). Agencies include Gissipandi ( T 09 49662207;

E smileaung09@gmail.com) and Khine Pyi Soe (25 Mill

Rd; T 09 8516162).

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

he heart of modern Mrauk U is its

market and immediately to its east lie the

remains of the old royal palace . he two

main concentrations of temples are to the

north and east of the palace; most are

open daily 7am-5.30pm. Entry to them

is covered by a K5000 entry fee, which is

usually collected at Shittaung Paya.

here are great views from temples

including Sakya Shwegu, Rathay

haung and Myan Daw Mu, while for

Mrauk U's fabulous sunsets the most

impressive panorama is the one from

the Discovery Viewpoint (sunrise to

sunset; K500).

ACCOMMODATION

Most budget guesthouses in Sittwe have either closed

down or stopped taking foreign guests. Book ahead.

Mya 51/6 Bowdhi Rd T 043 23315. This is the closest

you'll get to a bargain in Sittwe. Set in the same gardens

as a teahouse of the same name, it has twenty spa cious,

simple rooms each with a cold-water bathroom. $30

EATING

River Valley River Rd & Beach Rd. Set in a wooden

building with a garden at the side, this is the most

atmospheric place to eat around sunset. The menu covers

standard Chinese food from around K3500. There's also a

branch on Main Rd close to Shwe Thazin hotel. Daily

7.30am-10pm.

The palace and around

he fifteenth-century palace was sacked

when the city was conquered. he site was

partially excavated in 1999, and locals

claim that the work stalled because the