Myanmar (Burma) - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 531

Botataung Paya
he large riverside complex of
Botataung Paya (daily 5am-9.30pm;
$3) has a 40m-high golden stupa at its
heart and includes a bamboo-shaded
picnic area popular with families. It is
said to have a history stretching back
more than 2000 years, but the buildings
were destroyed by RAF bombers in
1943 and rebuilt after the country
gained independence.
Unusually, the rebuilt stupa is hollow
and contains a series of atmospheric and
dimly lit chambers with gold-covered
walls, where visitors roam and monks
meditate. he chambers surround the
pagoda's relic, a hair from the Buddha
stored in a case embellished with gold
and gems. Outside the pagoda complex,
opposite the main entrance, is a popular
nat (spirit) shrine.

National Museum
he National Museum , 66/74 Pyay
Road (Wed-Sun 10am-4pm; $5;
T 01 371540), is a litany of missed
opportunities to showcase Myanmar's
rich culture and history. Most exhibits
languish in poorly lit cases with no
explanatory text, with the notable
exception of the prominently displayed
Lion hrone of the last Burmese king.

Shwedagon Paya
he vibrant heart of Buddhist
Myanmar, the huge golden stupa of
Shwedagon Paya (daily 4am-10pm,
last admission 9pm; K8000;
W

7

shwedagonpagoda.com) is located less
than 3km northwest of the downtown
area, and is visible throughout much
of the city. Legends claim that a shrine
was first built here during the lifetime
of the Buddha to house eight of his
hairs, which were brought back by two
merchants, but the current structure
was rebuilt most recently in 1775
following an earthquake.
It's possible to approach along covered
stairways from any of the four cardinal
directions, or a wheelchair-accessible lift
in the south. he main stupa may
dominate the 14-acre platform at the top,
but there's a whole host of smaller
shrines, stupas and Buddha images
surrounding it. For many locals a visit to
the pagoda is a social event as well as a
religious one, and it's particularly
atmospheric in the evenings. his is also
when novice monks visit to practise their
English with foreigners.
As at all Buddhist holy places, you
should walk clockwise around
Shwedagon. he first thing many
Buddhists do is visit the appropriate
shrine for the day of their birth, offering
flowers, lighting a candle and pouring
water on the image. Next they will visit
each of the four large Buddhas, one
facing each entry point.
Look out also for a Buddha on the
south side which has been carved from a
single piece of jade, and the damaged
Singu Min Bell on the west side - the
British looted it in 1825, but when they
got it to the river their ship sank.

Sri Devi
A Tamil temple at the corner of 51st
Street and Anawrahta Road, Sri Devi
(daily 6-11.30am & 4.30-8.30pm) is a
brightly coloured change from the usual
white-and-gold Buddhist pagodas. Puja
(ritual offerings to the deities) usually
takes place at 8am and 6pm, while the
temple's biggest annual festival is on
June 10. he priests prefer you not to
take photos of the statues of gods.

Bogyoke Aung San Market
and around
Also known as Scott Market, the huge
Bogyoke Aung San Market (Tues-Sun
10am-5pm), on Bogyoke Aung San
Road, is popular with tourists looking
for souvenirs such as paintings, puppets,
lacquerware and jewellery. It's also a
decent place for lunch - look out for
kyeq k'auq-s'wèh (noodles in garlic oil,
with pork and a watery soup), nàn-gyì
thouq (cold rice-noodle “salad”) and
avocado shakes.
he streets to the south of the market
are arguably even more interesting,
particularly Theingyi Zei (between 27th
Street and Shwedagon Pagoda Road) and
the street market on 26th Street . Both are
aimed purely at locals, with lower prices
than Bogyoke Aung San Market.