Malaysia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 508

around the cave and past the flimsy
shelters where the birds'-nest collectors
sleep, and you'll see a wealth of freshwater
crabs in the stream near the exit from the
cave. Simud Hitam supports a colony of
black-nest swiftlets, whose nests - a
mixture of saliva and feathers - sell for
around US$100 a kilogram.
Above Simud Hitam, the smaller but
less accessible Simud Putih is home to
the white-nest swiftlet, whose nests are
of pure, dried saliva and can fetch prices
of over US$2000 a kilogram. During
the harvesting season, the birds'-nest
collectors live up here for ten days at a
time in complete darkness, with supplies
lifted up by rope pulley. To reach Simud
Putih, you take the left fork, five
minutes along the trail behind reception,
and start climbing (45min); it's also
reachable via a steep and somewhat
perilous scramble along some rocks from
inside Simud Hitam; ask for a guide at
the park headquarters.
You can come to the caves by arranged
tour from Sandakan, but many lodges
along the Kinabatangan River offer a
stopover here as part of their package, or
will drop you off here for free at the end
of your stay.

few hours before departure, and remember that it gets
into KK around 5.30am.
Destinations Kota Kinabalu (daily at 7.30am and 7.30pm;
10hr); Lahad Datu (4-5 daily; 3hr); Sandakan (daily; 6hr);
Tawau (4-5 daily; 1hr 30min).

INFORMATION
All diving outfitters, accommodation options and restaurants
are clustered along a couple of blocks of waterfront streets.
If heading out to Mabul, get some cash out at Maybank
along Jln Jakarullah.

6

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Bismillah Semporna Seafront. Curries and roti canai go
for a song at this Indian cheapie. Mains from RM4. Daily
9am-11pm.
Borneo Global Backpackers Jln Causeway T 088
270976, W bgbackpackers.com. Located opposite the
jetty, this clean, friendly guesthouse offers a/c dorms and
simple twins and doubles (some windowless). Nab a room
at the f ront f or the best views of the bay. Dorm RM20 ,
double RM60
Dragon Inn Jln Custom T 089 781088, W dragoninn
floating.com.my. Atmospheric wooden longhouses that
extend into the not-too-clean sea, with enormous dorms
and en-suite a/c rooms with tropical decor and cable TV.
The attached restaur ant se rves dec ent seafo od and Malay
noodle dishes. Dorm RM25 , double RM130
Mabul Steak House Semporna Seafront. Steak is not
the best thing at this lively upstairs restaurant-cum-
internet café: the seafood of your choice, cooked thirteen
different ways, is a better bet, and the fresh fruit juices are
enormous. Mains from RM9; count your change carefully.
Daily noon-11pm.
Scuba Junkie Backpacker 36 Semporna Seafront
T 089 782372, W scubajunkie.com. A lively hostel with
colourful a/c-cooled dorms and rooms, some with own
bathrooms. Acco mmod ation f or non -divers is twice as
expensive. Dorm RM25 , double RM65
★

SEMPORNA
he Bajau fishing town of SEMPORNA ,
108km east of Tawau, is the departure
point for diving trips to Pulau Sipadan
and other neighbouring islands.
Semporna's notable feature is the huge
water village stretching southwards along
the coast from the centre, which
incorporates mosques, shops and
hundreds of dwellings. Divers and
snorkellers tend to stay in Semporna
overnight on their way to and from
Mabul (see p.512).

Scuba Junkie Bar 36 Semporna Seafront. The most
happening place on the strip, this Kiwi-run restaurant/
bar has karaoke nights, excellent pizza (with imported
ingredients such as feta cheese and olives) and New
Zealand steak on the menu. Mains from RM20. Daily
noon-midnight.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus Minivans stop in front of USNO HQ, a couple of
blocks from the waterfront, while buses stop across the
road from the waterfront mosque. It's a 7min walk to the
waterfront accommodation options along Jln Simunul;
when the mosque is in front of you, head right, then left
towards the market stalls, then right again. If taking the
overnight bus to KK, buy your ticket a day in advance or a

SEMPORNA ARCHIPELAGO
he waters south of Semporna are littered
with tiny volcanic islands, which make
up the Semporna Archipelago . he largest
ones are Mabul, Kapalai, Si Amil,
Danawan and Sipadan - the world-
famous diving destination, though the