Malaysia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 490

guide fee). From here, it's an easy 9km
walk to Camp 5 , which nestles under
Gunung Api (1750m) and Gunung
Benarat (1580m). Most climbers spend
two nights at Camp 5 , where there's a
large hostel (RM40); bring a sleeping bag.
he ascent up the south face of Gunung
Api is only 2.4km, but the climb is
unrelentingly steep and the vertical final
section requires an actual climb involving
ladders and ropes. Climbers make it to
the top in two to five hours and the
descent also takes up to five hours. If you
fail to reach the mini-Pinnacles within
one hour, you are not fit enough and will
be sent back to Camp 5 . Bring at least
two litres of water, lunch, footwear with
good traction and sturdy biking gloves, as
you'll be using your hands to scramble up
the sharp rock.

frequently from Limbang to Bandar Seri
Begawan, Brunei (hourly until 4.30pm).

Gunung Mulu
he route to the summit of Gunung Mulu
(2376m) is a straightforward, though
very steep and relentless, climb that takes
four days and three nights. Park
regulations require that you hire a guide
(RM475 per person). he first stage is
from park headquarters to Camp 1 , an
easy three-hour walk on a flat trail. he
first night is at the open hut at Camp 1 ,
which has cooking facilities. Day two
comprises a hard, ten-hour uphill slog,
some of it along the southwest ridge,
a series of small hills negotiated by a
narrow, twisting path. he hut at Camp 4
is at 1800m; it can be cool here, so bring
a sleeping bag. Most climbers set off well
before dawn for the hard ninety-minute
trek to the summit, to arrive at sunrise.
Near the top you have to haul yourself
up by ropes onto the cold, windswept,
craggy peak. From here, the view, looking
down on Gunung Api, is exhilarating.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By plane The tiny airport is 2km west of park head-
quarters; taxis (RM5) meet the planes to take you to the
headquarters or accommodation.
Destinations

6

Headhunters' Trail
It's possible to hike from Camp 5
to Limbang along the so-called
Headhunter's Trail , a route once traced by
Kayan war parties. Cross the bridge, turn
left and walk along a wide trail passing a
large rock (around 4km). From here, a
clearly marked flat trail to Kuala Terikan ,
a small Berawan settlement on the banks
of Sungai Terikan, takes four hours
(11km). To get from Kuala Terikan to
Medamit or Limbang Cina, you'll need
to organize a guide or boatman in
advance via Limbang-based Borneo
Touch Ecotour (RM500 for a boat and
van in either direction for up to five
people; W walk2mulu.com). Boats run

Flights to Miri with MASWings ( W maswings
.com.my) leave the park twice daily (30min), to Kuching
daily (1hr 40min) and to Kota Kinabalu daily (1hr 30min).

INFORMATION
Park Headquarters The Park Headquarters o ce (daily
8am-5pm; T 085 792305, W mulupark.com) is the place

TREKKING IN THE PARK
If you're trekking independently, it makes sense to get a group of at least four together
to spread the high cost of boat and guide fees in the park; if you're travelling on your
own or simply want to get more people together you can post up a note on the board at
headquarters. Upon arriving, you need to register at the park headquarters (if it's after
5.30pm, register for the following day), and pay the RM30 park fee. Arranging one of the longer
treks with the park o ce itself (in advance) is considerably cheaper than coming as part of a
tour group from KL, Kuching or Miri, though out of peak season you may have trouble making
up the numbers (minimum of four people required).
Take plenty of water, decent walking shoes, a sun hat and swimming gear, a poncho or rain
sheet, a torch, mosquito repellent, ointment for bites and a basic first-aid kit. Mats and sleeping
bags (should you want one) can usually be rented from the park headquarters. Wear shorts
and T-shirts on the trails (it'll be easier to spot leeches), and bring long trousers and long-
sleeved shirts for the insect assault at dusk.